Saturday 27 May 2023

THE WILD SIDE OF THE CAIRNGORMS

 

Ciara & Matt enjoying the wilder side of the Cairngorms

Saturday 27th May.
Ciara & Matt out with Tarmachan Mountaineering today. Another one of my gift vouchers, a Christmas present from Ciara's Mother ( who I guided a few winter's ago). With no set agenda in mind the couple were happy for a fun and scenic day in the Cairngorms after I offered a few ideas out.

Best view in The Cairngorms
We kicked off with a fab traverse over the Fiacaill Coire Sneachda ridge. We were up onto the plateau in no time.

Fiacaill a Coire Sneachda ridge
Then lunch at my favourite view point, just in time for the clouds to lift again. Next was a descent into the Loch A'an basin and another favourite spot of mine, the fine waterfall.

Climbers on Hells Lum Crag

Carn Etchachan & The Sticil
This is a special place. Wild, pathless, scenic, no roads, no mobile phone signal ( this would be a nightmare for some people addicted to their mobile) then down the amazing slabs and wee waterfalls to Loch A'an and a sit on the beach.


The beautiful beaches at Loch A'an

Afternoon sun on Stac an Faradh
Finished off with a climb out of Loch A'an , across the plateau and back to Coire Cas ( I've renamed Coire Trash, seems its just a constant building site here nowadays). In contrast we visited beautiful mountain scenery and very few folk apart from a couple of teams climbing on Hells Lum Crag .
The Alpine/Arctic flowers starting to look wonderful. Latest flower just out is Dwarf Cornell.

The striking and unforgettable Dwarf Cornell
A top day out with fun and lovely company.
Not a single Munro 'bagged'. You see the hills are not just for Munro ticking 😉.

Tuesday 23 May 2023

CAIRNGORM MUNROS

 

Lenticular clouds over Beinn Mheadhoin

Tuesday 23rd May.

Debbie was out with Tarmachan Mountaineering today. During the last 12 years I've had the pleasure to guide Debbie on a fair few Munros, always in winter. Today's 'summer' Munro was the more remote Beinn Mheadhoin in the Cairngorms.

Morning break under The Sticil

Whichever route you take to its summit involves a long day. We took a fab way to the hill, the most scenic taking in Loch A'an. This is possibly the highlight of the whole approach to the remote Munro of Beinn Mheadhoin. If you choose to approach the hill from Deeside then you will miss this wonderful place.

The Sticil & Pinnacle Gully

Loch A'an

Stag Rocks
A beautiful early sunshine start, cloudy later. Very cool temperatures above 1000m. in the brisk Northerly wind.

Loch Etchachan & Ben Macdui

The summit tor on Beinn Mheadhoin

An easy scramble to the top

and scrambling back down
The summit sits on the largest tor and involves a slabby scramble to gain the highest point.

Feithe Buidhe crossing easy

The wonderful beaches on Loch A'an

Loch A'an, Carn Etchachan & The Sticil
A top day with plenty of banter.
Debbie now on her final 40 Munros! Good going considering she lives in Newcastle.

Sunday 21 May 2023

A WEEK IN TORRIDON

 

The classic view of Liathach

The blog has been getting a bit neglected recently. Too many trips away I guess and a general decline in numbers of folk looking at blogs. So if you want my blog to continue then get hitting the link and support it! Unlike other blogs I am not asking for cash :)

Anyway, back to it. Just back from a fabulous wee of walking in Torridon, the finest mountains on this planet, as you know. My annual week long guided walking week which is always the second week in May was fantastic for weather this year. I did have a few folk interested but they dithered. I had someone interested in An Teallach but they didn't commit, likewise Liathach. The top two mountains on Earth! Come on folks, there's more to mountains than the trudge up the Ben Nevis tourist path you know, :) . However Campbell, Amanda & John did come out with me for two separate days. The rest of the time I devoted to days out with my camera on the finest mountains you will ever need!

The Horns of Beinn Alligin
Before setting off the long term weather forecast was 'changeable and 'mixed'. How wrong were they? While the south of England got floods and London Village had a bit of rain, the NW Highlands enjoyed beautiful conditions. I set off with a bike ride from Achnasheen to Kinlochewe on Saturday. A great way to start my trip. The cafe at Achnasheen, The Midge Bite is one of the best cafes in the Highlands. Great food and friendly service. Take note all those 2 and 3 star hotels who I would never grace my presence in again, you know who you are ;)

It was good to see about a dozen bikes parked up outside the Midge Bite, more numbers than cars. It's only 10 miles to Kinlochewe and a lovely bike ride. I was  based at the Kinlochewe Hotel for 8 nights. Joined by Campbell for 3 of those later in the week.
Liathach with Beinn Alligin & Beinn Dearg to the right

Sunday 7th May.
Absolutely wonderful day on the second finest mountain on the planet, Liathach.
Started this morning with a beautiful push bike ride from Kinlochewe up Glen Torridon, the finest glen on the planet. Lovely and quiet with very few cars at 0830. By the time I got on Liathach's Eastern most top, Stuc a Coire Dubh Bhig, the thin, high level cloud dispersed and wonderful sunshine & light for the classic view of this amazing ridge.
Across the pinnacles, the best part of the day, fun, fun, fun. Many groups bypass Liathach's finest features, taking a dodgy, horrible and frankly dangerous lower traverse path which also misses out all the views to the north. It was wonderful and quiet.
The final Munro summit on the western end gives the most wonderful finale with stupendous views of Upper Loch Torridon and sweeping views to the north.
T-shirt job most of the day. And no midges! My leisurely walk across the tops to get some (proper) photography with the proper camera ( you'll have to wait) was timed with the early evening bike ride back down the glen, beautiful light and the road lovely and peaceful.
A top day. Over 200 traverses of Liathach and I still get excited every single time.


Monday 8th May.
The Torridon Munros had their heads in the cloud all day today. A day for a wee hill with more chance of a cloud free summit. The mountain of
Beinn A' Mhuinidh 692m dominates the views has you drive into Kinlochewe from the East. Its steep, craggy flanks give it an impressive stature and presence for its relatively low height. Surprisingly I've never actually walked up it. The countless times I've been on Slioch and walked underneath its slopes and pondered many times of going up it. Much of the hills Southern and Western flanks are very steep with smooth slabbed rock. Choosing an easy walking route requires some careful map work. There is no path of any kind up it once you leave a glen.
I made a circuit by heading up the far reaches of the beautiful and seldom visited
Gleann Bianasdail. If continued right through this glen it eventually brings you out at the wonderful Lochan Fhada, on the edge of the Fisherfield Forest. I left the trail after visiting the many wee waterfalls on the walk through. From the glen to the summit it is entirely pathless. Guaranteed to see no one. I did see plenty of deer though. I made a good choice, the top was free of cloud.
The return to Kinlochewe was also entirely pathless and featureless, heading SE with many small lochan's, peat hags and delightful gorges. If you intend on 'bagging' all the Graham's you will find most of these hills will be of similar terrain! I think I've done about half of the 224 hills on the Graham's list. Maybe I should make a point of completing them?
The threat of a wet day didn't happen. A completely dry outing after some early, light rain.


Tuesday 9th May.
Another brilliant day in Torridon.
A forecast of sunshine & showers usually delivers some good photography conditions. Hopeful of some nice light I got up to one of the peaks in the Flowerdale Forest. These lower hills give fabulous views into the North faces of all the big, famous Torridon Munros. Especially fine is the view into Beinn Eighe's Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
A beautiful push bike ride alongside Loch Maree to start the day, what wonderful views. It was down to t-shirt conditions on the walk up the hill. An hour from the summit a big, heavy downpour rolled in from the west. Impeccable timing, I reached the summit when the clouds dispersed it dried up and some bright sunshine. I spent over an hour photographing the fine views of Beinn Eighe, Liathach, Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin. Stupendous views.
On the decent a couple of lighter, shorter showers sparked off in the warm conditions. A lovely rainbow at one point.
Down at Loch Maree I waited another hour or so whilst a shower passed through before beautiful evening light on the Caledonian Pines and Slioch. Always stunning vistas from many parts of the Loch. Big bonus of a Black Throated Diver flew in and landed on the Loch, unaware of my presence. Special moments.
The day rounded off with a glorious evening bike ride bike to Kinlochewe.



Thursday 11th May.
A beautiful day in the finest mountains on Earth, Torridon.
Today's jaunt on Beinn Eighe I was joined by Campbell. We had a top day of ridge walking in beautiful sunshine.
My annual week long trip has seen some brilliant weather and the high pressure system will be over the NW Highlands again tomorrow and Saturday. Turning out into a fine week.
Top day, top company amongst the finest mountains you could wish for.




Friday 12th May.
Another stonking day in Torridon.
Wall to wall sunshine, warm with a lovely gentle breeze so not too hot. T-shirt job all day on Beinn Alligin. Setting off at 10am meant I was behind the crowds and lovely and peaceful. The day finished off nicely with 15 miles of beautiful road cycling (bike with no engine, thankfully road bikes haven't gone like mountain bikes with engines on them) back to Kinlochewe, through the finest glen on the planet.



Saturday 13th May.
Another top day in Torridon.
Amanda & John out with me today on Liathach. Their first time scrambling and they breezed along the wonderful, spectacular ridge. They gained confidence as we progressed. The couple have already notched up half of the Munros.
My second Traverse of Liathach in less than a week. What a way to finish my annual week long guiding in Torridon. If you're keen to join me in 2024 I have already someone booked on.
Another warm and sunny day, some high level cloud in the afternoon and a breeze. A brilliant week of weather.




Amanda & John have already booked a day for May 2023! An Teallach next time.

If you would like to join onto my Torridon week in 2024 then let me know asap. I've secured 4 rooms at the Kinlochewe Hotel for May 2024 (mega rare!) Details on request.








Monday 1 May 2023

PUFFINS, WILDLIFE & WINTER IN THE CAIRNGORMS

 

Puffins have arrived
Catching up on my blog after a week long trip on the Isle of Mull and a recent cold snap back home. It's been a long time since I spent a good few days on this beautiful island in the Inner Hebrides. I lived on the island over 25 years ago, how time flies! Since 1998 we've had Ballamory, an ever increasing tourist market and a sharp increase of interest in Mull's amazing wildlife. The main reason for my visit!

Wonderful Lunga

Pairing up

16-23 APRIL

With a week of high pressure centred over the West coast it was a great time to get away. Mull is a wonderful destination for anyone into wildlife. The puffins have just arrived back on land after their long spell out at sea. These beautiful and remarkable wee birds spend 8 months out in the ocean and only return to land to breed. From mid April to around early August is the only period you can see them, unless you're in a boat!
The Puffins don't nest on Mull itself but out in the Treshnish Isles which is a one hour boat journey from Mull. I booked onto the excellent Turus Mara who run trips out throughout the Spring and Summer.
The wee isle of Lunga in the Treshnish Isles is where the main colony of puffins settle in for the summer.
Here's just a few of the many thousand's of images I took over a 2 day period of these amazing wee birds.

Nest building


The Treshnish Isles are also home to a hoast of other wonderful sea birds who come to land to breed during the summer months. 

Shag, Razorbills & Kittiwakes are also busy pairing up and nesting.

Shag portrait

Shag

Razorbill

Razorbill

On the Taru Mara boat back to Mull we spotted 4 Bottlenose Dolphins playing beside us. Wonderful. Unfortunately I didn't capture any full breaching on the camera (which they did several times!).

Bottlenose Dolphins



On another day I took a day out in another boat trip to see (hopefully) the White Tailed Sea Eagles which Mull is famed for. We weren't disappointed! Two separate pairs were out catching some fish.

White Tailed Sea Eagle


With fish!


A few more Puffins, can't get enough Puffins!





Taking off

Mull is now incredibly busy and getting any accommodation last minute is nigh on impossible. Shame on some hotels and holiday rentals, what was still available they were (hoping) to get £280 per night! Ridiculous. £290 a 1 bedroom flat in Tobermory, no thanks. The big hotel complex at Craignure were offering 6 nights for £2,400! I settled for a lovely apartment in Oban that worked out £90 per night and I took the ferry over to Mull every day, apart from one night were I wild camped on a beautiful evening. At my 'priceless' camp spot I had fabulous views over Loch Na Keal to Ben More (Mull's only Munro). That view was worth more than £280 with a load of noisy late night pub goers in Tobermory's high street!

The Oban - Craignure ferry and Lismore lighthouse, 10 crossings!

Priceless accomodation with 5 star views

Ben More at the golden hour

and a priceless sunset

Back home to the Cairngorms, just after the weather started to break down. It nudged the high teens centigrade on Mull and much of the west coast last week. Back in the east and the temperature's dropped again with snow on the tops and even down to 600m for a couple of days.

Northern corries of Braeriach

Cairn Gorm in full winter garb

TUESDAY 25th APRIL.
A good covering of snow in the Northern Cairngorms today. Snow lying to about 600m, which was around the freezing level. It won't be disappearing anytime soon with low temperatures next couple of days.
Great day with the mountain hares. Some wonderful contrasting colours amongst the 6 different hares I photographed today. A couple almost into Spring pelage, Mo Charaid is just a wonderful colour right now. He was looking supreme in the odd bright spell.
I had 4 layers on, including the big waterproof down.

Fresh snow for the hares 

Mo Charaid taking shelter on the southern side of the hill


THURSDAY 27th APRIL
Nice late afternoon jaunt up to Cairn Gorm today. Lovely and deserted.
Despite slightly warmer temperatures than the last couple of days, there are still good amounts of snow above 900m. Snowing at 800m.
Having snow in late April is, of course, quite normal up here. If you want Spring best look elsewhere.

Poor vis on Cairn Gorm

Rime iced weather station

Still winter

SATURDAY 29th & SUNDAY 30th APRIL
A dull, cloudy weekend. Perfect conditions for a couple of dreary hill days near Corrour. Cloud down to 600m on both days so not much in the way of views. Highlights were Curlews and Snipe outside the tent last night and remarkably we saw no one on both of the hill days.
The grub at Corrour cafe far superior food, service and friendliness than many 5 star Highland Hotels. Proper thick toasties, proper fat chips & of course great cake 😀
Oh yeah, and Carn Dearg & Sgurr Gaibhre
Beinn na Lap.

Views better at the Loch 

Much of the two hill days wa like this above 600m

A Munro, they both looked the same today, apart from one had a big cairn

The fabulous West Highland Line railway

Fat toasties & fat chips
Don't forget the cake!

Coffee and cake to finish

Leave no trace, have a dump here - far better for the environment :)