GUIDED WALKING IN TORRIDON

Liathach 

Last week I was guiding for 5 days in the most wonderful mountain area on the planet, Torridon. I could quite happily guide in Torridon and walk for the rest of my life, and nowhere else. Regular followers of my blog will know my love for this area in the NW Highlands already. My enthatic enthusiasm must have rubbed off as Christian and his wife, Claire, decided to see what all the fuss was about. We based ourselves on the shores of Loch Ewe in luxurious comfort for 5 days of spectacular walking. 

Sgurr Mhor, Beinn Alligin

MONDAY 10 MAY

Beinn Alligin 

We started off on the 'easiest of the 'famous 3' in Glen Torridon - Beinn Alligin. This beautiful mountain is the most westerly of the major masifs in the area. Beinn Alligin is situated wonderfuly, rising from the shores of Upper Loch Torridon. It was a fine start to the day with sunshine. 

Upper Loch Torridon 

The recent, unseasonable snowfalls of the previous week had all but disappeared off most of the Torridon hills, very different conditions from the Cairngorms. The warmer day on the Sunday had rapidly melted all snow off the mountain. 

Christian on his first Torridon Munro, Tom na Gruagaich 

We were soon on Beinn Alligin's first Munro, Tom Na Gruagaich. Super views all round. A pair of Ptarmigan flew over the summit. From the 922m summit a lovely, easy ridge walk continues over to Sgurr Mhor. With views every step of the way.

 

Eag Dubh

We got a brief snow/sleet shower on the summit of Sgurr Mhor which lasted all of 5 minutes. The clouds were well above the tops so didn't spoil the views.

Liathach from Sgurr Mhor

The Horns and Beinn Dearg

Easy ridge walking then continues down to the bealach with views out to the North with the Flowerdale Forest hills looking wonderful. 

Baoshbhain, Flowerdale Forest 

Sgurr Mhor

After the descent of the second Munro the ridge rearers up and next  you need to tackle the Horns of Alligin. These three sandstone towers offer very easy scrambling, there are wee bypass ledges if desired. 

On the Horns

It was a beautiful afternoon with some breaks in the cloud and warm sun. We seemed to have the mountain to ourselves. Just a couple of folk eho were well behind us. We savoured the peace and the views. 

On the Horns looking to Liathach 

There are fine views of Liathach as you come down off the final tower. Some lingering snow in it's Northern Corries. 

Liathach from the final tower

Lingering snow on Liathach 

Coire Mhic Nobuil path

TUESDAY 11 MAY

Liathach

All smiles along Liathach's amazing ridge

We were hoping for fine conditions to tackle the 2nd finest mountain on the planet, Liathach. Tuesday hinted at the best weather day of the week so this was our choice today. Liathach's huge, rocky slopes tower steeply above the village of Torridon in wonderful  sandstone tiers. From the glen it looks difficult but is, in fact, essily gained up a well constructed path. After gaining the ridge a wonderful rollercoaster begins. There is some scrambling involved to link the mountains two Munro summits. Christian is a fellow qualified Mountain Leader and experienced scrambler so we were set for a top day out along the many km's of ridge and pinnacles.

First hands on rock

Views at last 

Ptarmigan in the drizzle 

The weather forecast was suggesting that early rain would pass through, replaced by midday sunshine. We set off in some light rain showers, the tops were in cloud and it was a cool morning. We were quickly on the ridge, unfortunately the views were hidden away. Two Ptarmigan were our only company as we made our way over the first two tops and then the Munro summit of Spidean a Choire Leith. There was just a couple of very small snow patches to negotiate.

Brilliant fun

The way ahead clear

Big ledges for down scrambling

We were just descending from Liathach's first Munro when the skies cleared and the views appeared! Perfect timing for the fun section on the Fasarinen pinnacles. Christian took all the scrambling in his stride. If you're not into scrambling you can avoid much of it by the wee bypass sections just below the pinnacles. There is a much lower bypass path but this is not the way I would ever use. There are some very eroded sections around big gullies with nothing to hold onto if you choose to venture there. Far safer and far more fun to stick on the ridge.

Big ledges, big views

Looking back along the ridge

Stunning views down to the glen

Lovely Torridon Sandstone scrambling 

Great fun

We had the entire mountain to ourselves. I occasionally looked down to the glen and the carpark for Liathach. We never saw any cars parked up all day. What a brilliant feeling to have this splendid mountain just for us.

The final Pinnacle of Am Fasarinen was topped in beautiful afternoon sunshine. The last 30 minutes stroll to the Munro of Mullach an Rathain gives a wonderful finale to the the traverse.

Walking inbetween the scrambling 

More fun

Am Fasarinen 

Looking back East along the ridge

Am Fasarinen from the West

Mullach an Rathain 

Loch Torridon from the top

We savoured the gorgeous views from Mullach an Rathain down to Loch Torridon  before our steep descent into the Toll Ban.

Coire na Caime

Beinn Alligin from the top

It was now beautiful late afternoon sunshine and warm. We had a final bit of fun exploring a wee snow tunnel, situated  quite low down in the coire.

Snow tunnel season

Cooling off

With all the Covid restrictions going on it is a bit of a tight squeeze getting a good hill day in and trying to get food in a hotel or restaurant in time for a good feed up. We managed successfully to get 3 courses in at the brilliant Kinlochewe Hotel. A pint would have gone down well to round a brilliant day off, instead we enjoyed a stunning sunset on Slioch.

Slioch on the way back to our digs

WEDNESDAY 12 MAY

Maol Chean-dearg 

An Ruadh-stac from Maol Chean-dearg 

Today we had an 'easier walk'. Just a wee 8 hour jobee. Claire was with us once again for our trip up Maol Chean-dearg. This isolated Munro on the South side of Glen Torridon is a fantastic viewpoint. Unfortunately the cloud was stubborn to lift off the summit area but we managed to get some fine views on the approach and the lower slopes.

Maol Chean-dearg from other an Eion 

An Ruadh-stac 

There is a brilliant stalkers path that runs all the way from the start at Annat to the final steep Southern slopes. Along the route are some beautiful lochans to explore.

Superb stalking paths 

We spotted Ptarmigan again higher up the hill along with plenty of Cuckoo's lower down and Ring Ouzel around too.

An Ruadh-stac 

Summit views

Some bright interludes

Another day of seeing absolutely no one. Strange but great! Another grand day out, another rush straight into the pub for food, another sticky toffee pudding.

THURSDAY 13 MAY

AN TEALLACH 

Cloud cleaning Sgurr Fiona, An Teallach 

The finest mountain on Earth today. An Teallach. Although this supreme mountain is not situated in Glen Torridon it is exactly the same geology as the Torridon Mountains. A good weather day was forecasted with light winds and sunny spells promised.  

Toll an Lochain 

Sgurr Fiona and Corrag Buidhe

An Teallach is made up of a complex and huge ridgeline. The classic 'horseshoe' circuit taking in the Corrag Buidhe pinnacles and two Munro summits is my usual day on the hill. With the uncertainty of lingering snow around the bases and gullies near the pinnacles we decided on a different but equally spectacular route.

Spectacular pinnacles 

The mists coming and going

We opted to walk into the beautiful and spectacular Loch Toll an Lochain. This lonely body of water nestles below the huge cliffs of 'The Forge'. From here we climbed up the steep slopes of Glas Mheall Liath, one of 7 Munro 'tops'. The cloud was low when we set out but by the time we gained our first summit the mists slowly lifted to reveal An Teallachs pinnacles and summits.

The view from Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill

Sgurr Fiona and Corrag Buidhe 

There was cloud on the Munro summit of Bidein and Ghlas Thuill but we were soon out of this 50m below the top. Fine views all the way up to the 2nd Munro of Sgurr Fiona.

Sgurr Fiona 

Sgurr Fiona & the Corrag Buidhe 

Fisherfield Forest 

From Sgurr Fiona we continued along the ridges to the 'Munro Top' of Sgurr Creag an Eich.  A grand viewpoint and a rarely visited spot. From our final summit we descended into the quiet, pathless and wonderful wild Coire Mor an Teallaich. Finally the sun showed its face by 5pm. A beautiful end to the day. This route also gives a brilliant finish to the walk, ending on the roadside below Ardessie Falls.

Showers passing through from our final summit

Looking back to the ridge

Little Loch Broom near the end

Ardessie Falls 

FRIDAY 14 MAY

Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair 

For Claire and Christian's final day we had a relaxing walk into the stunning Coire Mhic Fhearchair below Beinn Eighe. This grand corrie is one of the most iconic views in Torridon,  indeed Scotland. An easy, well built path takes you very easily into the coire. Along the way you get some terrific scenery. What a great way to finish a spectacular 5 days amongst the finest mountains in the world. Great company,  banter, laughs and the weather played ball. Thanks to Christian and Claire.

Calum welcomes you to the start 

Coire Dubh Mor

Christian smashing it

Liathach

In the coire

Triple Buttress of Beinn Eighe