THE CAIRNGORMS 4000

 

The team enroute to Braeriach 

Walking the highest mountains in the UK is a fine objective, otherwise known as all the Munros. That's 282 of them. That's quite a big challenge. If you want a more achievable hillwalking experience that can be dome in just a few days then how about climbing all the 4000 foot mountains in the British Isles? There are only 9 summits that can boast this height and 5 of them are in the Cairngorms. You can walk the Cairngorms 4000ft hills in a fine 2 day trip with one wild camp. I've guided a few of these expeditions now. On Sunday I had a big group of 12 folk who were all up for this fabulous experience. Christian Howell was assistanting me with the guiding on this 2 day outing. We met the group at the Sugarbowl for 9am. The group consisted of family and friends from the south of England. They had a Mount Elbrus expedition planned this summer but because of Corona virus travel restrictions they had to cancel that. The Cairngorms 4000 was  their 'UK alternative'.

Day 1, Sunday 24th October 

We're off

A fine start to the day

After a final chat on kit and weather we set off in fine sunshine and a blustery, mild SW wind. As is often the case here in the Cairngorms the winds are always a big factor. These mountains are the windiest in the UK. The weather forecasts were suggesting 35-50 mph on the tops on both days. A relitively 'warm' period after the last few days. All the snow from last Friday had been stripped. Rain showers were due in the afternoon. 

The Chalamain Gap 

It's always nice to start off in the dry and the morning sun was very pleasant. The first 'obstacle' on our route up to Braeriach is the Chalamain Gap.  This amazing melt water channel from the post glacial period is an amazing feature to walk through. It's also an awkward one with many boulders to clamber across. Made harder with a heavy backpacking rucksack. 

A rest up on the ridge up to Braeriach 

Big bags

At the 1100m contour on Braeriach we headed into the cloud, unfortunately views were limited on the third highest peak in Britain. The last people to see today were just heading down from.the summit. We had the whole western plateau to ourselves. 

The Lairig Ghru from Sron na Larig on Braeriach 

A fleeting glimpse of Macdui from Braeriach 

I had the compass out several times from the summit of Braeriach across the huge plateau that heads to Sgor an Lochain Uaine. It takes about 1hr 30mins to walk this section. The first of many showers came down upon us and with the 45mph head wind it made for tough conditions with a big bag on your back. Everyone was coping well. Christian doing a fine job at the back keeping the group together and morale up.

The only remaining snow at the infant Dee

The snow bridge coping well with 14 people

Time was drifting on by when we got to the summit of Sgor an Lochain Uaine. Dark clouds and a viewless summit with a slightly stronger wind. All smiles though with 2 down and 1 to go for today.

Cairn Toul summit

Our final summit was Cairn Toul. This mountain is a very bouldery affair with some awkward walking. Tired legs, wet clothing and cold hands at tea time with 50mph gusts makes for digging deep to persevere.  At least it was all down hill from here, well apart from the wee subsidiary Munro 'top' to get over before the long descent into the Lairig Ghru. 

Torches on

Before the rain

Darkness comes early in late October. We donned the head torches for the route down Coire Odair, the easiest descent into the Lairig Ghru. The rain showers merged at this point to give everyone a good soaking. The luxury of Corrour Bothy was shunned as we made our way across the Dee and set up camp in a wilder setting.  Some very wet and tired folk but we got the tents up and the stoves were soon on the go for our late supper. A great effort in the conditions. 

Day 2, Monday 25th October 

Improvised waterproof vest

Happy campers

After a good night's kip the team emerged from the tents and decided another tough day up on the high summits of Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm was too much. Wet clothing, wet boots, wet gloves and no spares plus tired legs was a bit too much for another tussle in the mountains. So everyone decided to get back to civilisation. 

Packing up

At least there's no midges

The  quickest way out  is through the Lairig Ghru of course. When I say 'quick' we are still taking about 5 hours.  We packed up and headed out.  Even on a 'mild' October morning at 700m there were still a few cold hands in the group. Carrying spares of everything is essential. Even if you've got a pair of £159 Everest mittens.

All packed up and rearing to go

Warming up

Atmospheric Lairig Ghru 

Some folk seem to regard the Lairig Ghru as a 'stroll through the glen' or indeed a stroll in the park. It certainly isn't any of those. The highest point of this amazing trench through the high Cairngorms is 830m, that's higher than most Lake District hills and almost Munro height.  The path is not always good walking terrain and it can be quite confusing around the highest point which is boulder strewn. One glance at the mountain rescue call outs over the years will testify this serious area. Treat with respect, it's mountain terrain, high and remote. Oh and not much of a phone signal either.

Looking up into a cloudy Garbh Choire Mor 

Nearing the high point of the Lairig Ghru 

Some sun in the afternoon 

Lurchers Crag

Only the boulders through the Chalamain Gap to get through  after our lunch stop. The afternoon saw some bright spells but  the team were looking forward to their hotel and dry clothes again.

Well done to everyone in these conditions. 

Here's a few tips for anyone thinking of a 2 day backpacking trip in these hills or indeed any Scottish mountains. 

Carry a complete set of spare, dry clothes for inside your tent and for the following day. Even if you think that £350 goretex jacket is the bees knees.

Down clothing and down gloves do not work in a moist/mild/wet Scottish climate. 

Gloves, take lots and lots!

Headtorch: did you put new batteries in there since last using it? Are you carrying a spare one?

Walking poles, take them. Even if your 21 years old and fit as a fiddle.

Rucsack outside covers: ridiculous things ever invented. They don't work in a Cairngorms breeze.

Gloves, take plenty! Oh I said that already. Gloves are wonderful things.

Nearly home

Sunny Glenmore

A great team effort and full marks to everyone coping in the conditions. If it was a bit colder then a very different story.  Winter is always knocking on the door in the Cairngorms at this time of year. 

Big thanks to Christian for keeping up morale and encouragement and always with a smile on his face.

The team