CORBETT COMPLETION

On Wednesday last week I spent 3 days in the hills with John Allen.

At a young 83 years of age I had the privilege to join him on his final Corbett, Beinn a'Chasgein Mor in the spectacular, wild and wonderful Fisherfield Forest. 

John was my landlord for 9 years when I lived in Killin. 

He's the most unassuming mountaineer that I have had the pleasure to know. He started his long and amazing life in the mountains at the age of 17 when he went on a school Alpine climbing trip with his teacher (that would be unheard of in today's world). Since then, he has climbed extensively in The Alps, Scotland and the Greater Ranges. I've had some amazing days in the hills with John on Scottish winter climbs, scrambles and saunters up Munros and Corbett’s. John has a lifetime of climbing adventures, far too many to list here.

His final Corbett he savoured over a 3-day trip. Cycling in on a 17-year-old bike, bivvying at Carnmore with a 40 yr old down jacket and 3 lunches of 4-day old jam butties to get him to his last Corbett. 

We finished in a pub (of course).

The magnificent Fisherfield Forest

What a fitting finale of finishing these hills by saving Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor for your last. This mountain lies in the Fisherfield Forest. It must rank as one of, if not the most remote Corbett. Sitting adjacent to the Munro of A' Mhaigdhean which is reputed to be the furthest Munro from any road. John had decided to cycle in from Poolewe on the morning of Wednesday 19th April. I couldn't get to Poolewe until mid afternoon so we had decided on meeting up at Carnmore that evening. The walk in from Poolewe to the farm at Kernsary is on good tracks, well suited to using a bike and saving some leg work. John had cycled in on his 17 year old mountain bike, loaded with bivvy gear for two nights. From Kernsary the route into the hills continues through some forestry, eventually coming out into open moorland and the first sight of the mountains. The narrow, well-maintained path from here to the shooting lodge at Carnmore is a walk of wonderful delight with the mountains of the Fisherfield and Letterwe directly in front of you. If you ever tire of this walk with views like this then I am sorry but you should just give up walking in the mountains and go and do some jigsaw puzzles.

Beinn Liar beyond one of the many lochans 

A' Mhaighdean in glorious late afternoon light

Carnmore Crag

Dubh Loch

A' Mhaighdean snd Dubh Loch

The private shooting lodge at Carnmore sits directly underneath the impressive Carnmore Crag & Sgurr na Laocainn. It looks oddly out of place given this is such a remote and wild area. A bygone age of romanticism in the Highlands, shooting stags for pleasure and resting up in luxury. It's still used of course but mostly in the stalking season of late summer/autumn. This evening we had the place to ourselves apart from one guy passing through. We sat in the warm evening sun. John was telling me of his rock-climbing days when he and his mate climbed for a week on the impressive and remote Carnmore Crag directly above us. They lugged 90-pound rucksacks in to the very same spot in the 1970's. Ladened with climbing equipment, camping gear and food for a week of hardcore climbing. John and his pal climbed routes such as Gob and Dragon.

Our summit lies just above these crags. Tomorrow we were off to tackle the hill with just a pair of walking boots, hands free. I did ask John why they hadn't 'bagged' the summit of Beinn A' Chaisgein Mor while they were so close from the climbing crag. He told me the summit wasn't important in his climbing days.

Dubh Loch at the Golden Hour

The wind had increased during the night but it was another glorious sunny morning. Wonderful to wake up and sit outside the tent with no damn midges! Bliss. We set off up the hill and a step closer to John's final Corbett. Of course, when you're a young whipper snapper and into running or technical biking you could get to the top of this hill in a long day from Poolewe. When you're 83 you will be going at a more leisurely pace. John & I were enjoying savouring the area, weather and each other’s company. John has a life time of climbing adventures and you could spend several days hearing about his terrific exploits on mountains around the world.

John nearing the top

The network of stalkers paths in this area are some of the finest trails in the Highlands. It's sheer joy to walk in these mountains. I've traversed these hills numerous times, in all directions and all times of year. My last visit to Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor was over 20 years ago when I combined it with a bivvy on A' Mhaighdean during the summer solstice. The final stretch to the top is on a beautiful, easy angled, long and pathless slope. The wind was strong but it was never going to stop John getting to his final Corbett.

The Torridon mountains to the west

Fisherfield Munros to the north

John at his final Corbett 

john was well chuffed with his achievement, rightly so. We sat out of the wind, in the sun and savoured the moment. John tucked into his 3-day old jam butties like a true mountaineer. 

Sheltered
We retraced our steps back down to Carnmore for a second night. We hadn't seen anyone all day. Brilliant stuff.

Great views on the descent 

An Teallach looking fine

Late afternoon views

Back at Carnmore it was another glorious evening. More camp food, more old mountain stories, more laughs, more 3-4 days old readymade food.

Back near Carnmore 

Friday morning and another glorious day. Wall to wall sun and no wind this morning. No midges too, of course. We made a leisurely start on the walk back out. Plenty of stops to soak in the views.

Friday morning light on A' Mhaighdean 

Letterewe reflections

Beinn Arigh Charr 

Back to the hustle and bustle of Poolewe. We were both looking forward to food and a pint at the only hotel in the village. We were turned away from the Poolewe Hotel, the reception telling us 'Resident's only' at 6.30pm with 1 car in the carpark. Brilliant. Tourism at its finest.

A well earned pint

That wasn't going to stop us celebrating. We made it to Gairloch for grub and a pint.

Sunset at Loch Ewe, finner than the hotel welcome

A fantastic few days. John says he's not doing any more big days out in the hills. I don't believe it. Here's to many more adventures in the mountains.