TARMACHAN MOUNTAINEERING: July 2022

Iconic viewpoint

With a day or so off from guiding and a couple of nights in Zermatt, it's been nice to get some walking and photography done. Zermatt town itself gets bigger and busier year after year. It doesn't take long to walk from the centre of town and be away from the hustle and bustle of cafes, gear shops and jewellery outlets. You could very easily spend a week or more using Zermatt for a base. I first visited Zermatt in 1992. The mountains are as spectacular now as they were then.

Early morning. Zinal Rothorn & Weisshorn

Monte Rosa group

Castor, Pollution & Brighthorn

Cloud burning off Weisshorn

On Sunday morning I got out early doors. I was hoping to capture the atmosphere of some early morning clouds but by 0800 they had burned away in the warm sun. I saw no one until later in the day. Their was clear and great for photography. These images are all out of my cheap mobile phone camera.

The view of the Matterhorn from my balcony

Before the crowds arrived

Another view

Hard to find a bad viewpoint anywhere

On Monday I had just a few hours before my train back to Chamonix.

A stroll above Zermatt this morning before heading back to Chamonix and the start of another Walkers Haute Route trip.

You don't have to walk far from town before some wonderful viewpoints. One of my favourite walks is to the Schonbiel Hutte below the north face of the Matterhorn. This is a much quieter walk as no cable cars, trains or other forms of mechanical uplifts. Foot power to earn your views. Unfortunately I never had time to walk all the way to the hut.

The Butterflies in the region have been amazing this summer.

More of them on the proper camera.

The train journey from Zermatt to Chamonix is wonderful. 4 trains and of course they all connect within minutes of each other and all on time.

Meanwhile back home trains are distrupted again. Maybe the UK train system needs to have a long look into the amazing Swiss transport and how trains should be run.

Above Zermatt, stepping back in time

Wonderful butterflies everywhere

How it used to be

The Matterhorn above Zmutt

North face

Lovely walking

Here's a short video clip from Sunday.

Grand Combin

After 2 years of no Alpine guiding work it is so good to be back with groups enjoying the stunning scenery that Europe's most popular mountains offer. Thanks to all those who voted Brexit it is almost impossible for me and other UK based IML's to gain a work visa in France and Italy. Fear not, our friends in Switzerland are far more sympathetic to us Brits. A simple online application form grants us to work here. So this season I will be guiding on 3 Walkers Haute Route trips. The classic walk from Chamonix to Zermatt is a 10 day walk of stunning scenery linking these two Alpine towns steeped in mountaineering history.

TUESDAY 13 JULY

MONTROC - TRIENT

My first trip of the 2022 season I am guiding for Cloud 9 Adventure, owned by Emma Jack. I've known Emma for over 12 years and it's great to be working with her first group on the Walkers Haute Route this season. The group of 5 folk from USA are joined by 2 folk from Britain who booked onto Tracks & Trails, a joint team based in the Chamonix Valley. It's always nice to guide for small, local companies. This is my 62nd Walkers Haute Route trip. My first was in 2006.

Walking below the Aigulle Rouge

High above the Chamonix Valley

We set off under blue skies and hot sunshine. Thankfully the Chamonix Valley is at an altitude of over 1200m. A bit cooler than most of Europe just now. The route begins at the tiny train station of Montroc, just on the outskirts of Chamonix.

Mont Blanc & Chamonix

The WHR has many cols to go up and down over the course of our 10 day itinerary. Col de Balme is our first col and we are soon into Switzerland. The rest of this classic trek is now in Swiss territory. It's a simple descent to Trient, our end point today. A nice easy and shortish introduction to the trek.

Col de Balme

The descent to Trient

Trient and tomorrow's route

WEDNESDAY 14 JULY

TRIENT- CHAMPEX

The second day of the tour is a good eye opener for what's ahead. A long, tough day but one of wonderful scenery. A real feeling of being in the mountains as we traverse over the Fenetre Arppette.

What a backdrop

Nearing the col

Trient Glacier up close

The Fenetre Arppette is one of the most challenging cols on the trek. High, steep and some tricky terrain to cope with. All in a stunning location.

The team on top

Descending

Pointy and boulders

The descent is still has challenging with a big boulder field to get through. A top day and the team doing brilliant. Another hot day.

Negotiating the boulders

Easier

Butterflies wonderful

THURSDAY 15 JULY

CHAMPEX - CABANE MONT FORT

Hot day, plenty of water

Descending through meadows

An easier day with a lot of downhill. A pleasant route from Champex to the village of Sanbrancher in the Val Bagnes, then onto the town of Chable for lunch.

High above the Val Chable

Hot again

We miss out the tedious climb from Chable in the valley to Ruinettes High above in the mountains. This is a ski area in winter and the walk up is through uninteresting ground, being close to the ski infrastructure. We take the gondolas up to Ruinettes. A fabulous view from over 2200m. It's a short easy walk to the Cabane Mont Fort.

Cabane du Montfort

First of two nights High up in the Mountains. The Cabane Mont Fort is a great spot to spend a night. Stunning views from the patio. Tomorrow lies the finest day on the trek.

Sunset from the hut

My bedroom view

SATURDAY 16 JULY

CABANE MONT FORT- CABANE PRAFLEURI

The finest day on the trek ( for me) is this high level route in the mountains climbing 3 cols.

Descending to Cabane Prafleuri

Col Prafleuri

A fabulous day on the finest day of the Walkers Haute Route (in my opinion). If you love high, wild and raw beauty of the Alps then this is it. We saw lots of chamois and a whole family of ibex including at least 4 'baby' ibex. Marmots, of course.

Setting off at 0630 we caught the beautiful light on the Grand Combin which is a 4000m peak and stands in wonderful isolation from the Mont Blanc massif.

Proper photography later.

Grand Desert

Mt. Cenus Bellflower

Baverian Gentian

Grand Combin in perfect isolation

Heading to the Col de Louvie

Col Termin

Sentier de Chamois

Grand Combin

SUNDAY 17 JULY

Cabane Prafleuri- Arolla

Col de Roux & Lac Dix

Another superb day on the Walkers Haute Route. From Cabane Prafleuri to Arolla the day is full of wonderful raw mountain scenery. A 'baby col' at first light saw more ibex. Down towards Lac Dix the area is full of marmots. A gradual climb back up to the 2nd col of the day is amidst big mountain vistas with Mont Blanc de Cheilon dominating the views. The route up to the Col Reidmatten is now much easier in its lower section. There is now an excellent path that avoids the huge area of loose ground. The final way up to the small notch is still steep of course. This is the higher col and the best col, the lower Pas de Cheveres is adorned with ladders and for me an inferior way over to Arolla. You get the first sighting of the Matterhorn from here. More Marmots and edelweiss on the easy trail down to the beautiful village of Arolla. Back to luxury at the wonderful hotel Kurhaus.

Easy strolling beside Lac Dix

On the Moraines

Great views of Mont Blanc de Cheilon

Steep up to Col de Reidmatten

The team on Col Reidmatten

Descending

Col de Reidmatten

Stunning views on our descent

Approaching Arolla

MONDAY 18 JULY

Arolla - La Sage

I call this a 'rest day'. A liesurley saunter, mostly downhill with a dip in Lac Bleau enroute.

Room with a view

Butterflies everywhere

Easy walking, great views

Lac Bleau

TUESDAY 19 JULY

La Sage - Zinal

Back to the big days in the mountains. 2000m of ascent today as we ascend Col de Torrent & Col de Sorebois.

Val de Herens

Col de Torrent

Today's Walkers Haute Route leg from La Sage to Zinal is another big hill day. 2000m of ascent to get over the Col de Torrent and Col de Sorbois. A superb day with some big 4000m peaks on view including Dent de Herens, Ober Gabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Zinal Rothorn, Weisshorn and Bishorn.

The view from Col de Sorbois is one of the finest, despite the ugly ski area below. The huge wall of glaciated 4000'ers is stunning. Top day and great effort by the group in the heat.

Another hot and dusty day with the first clouds seen on the trip so far.

picnic Time

Arnica

Col de Sorebois

WEDNESDAY 20 JULY

ZINAL - GRUBEN

Meadows above Zinal

An easier day on the Walkers Haute Route. From Zinal over to the Turtmental via the Forcletta Pass is a mere 1200m ascent. I favour going over to the Weisshorn Hotel and Meind Pass but with a forecast of thunder and rain we went for the quicker day. It actually turned out completely dry with some nice cloud formations, despite the heat haze. Welcome relief with slightly cooler temperatures on top.

A lovely descent into more beautiful forest with a constant chatter of the Nutcracker birds.

Another top day in The Alps.

Cumulous

Nearing the Forcletta

Mouse Ear

Jim & Karen on the Forcletta

The other side

Still no showers

An easier day on the Walkers Haute Route. From Zinal over to the Turtmanntal via the Forcletta Pass is a mere 1200m ascent. I favour going over to the Weisshorn Hotel and Meiden Pass but with a forecast of thunder and rain we went for the quicker day. It actually turned out completely dry with some nice cloud formations, despite the heat haze. Welcome relief with slightly cooler temperatures on top.

A lovely descent into more beautiful forest with a constant chatter of the Nutcracker birds.

Another top day in The Alps.

Guiding for

Cloud 9 Adventure TracksandTails

Nice cloud formations

Fascinating

Weisshorn and meadows

THURSDAY 21 JULY

Gruben - St. Niklaus

Cloudscapes

Penultimate day of this Walkers Haute Route with my group of 7 folk.

Overnight thunderstorms and rain gave a lovely, fresh cooler morning which was very welcome. Some atmospheric cloud floating about, no doubt from last night's moisture. Today's section from Gruben over the Augstboard Pass links the Turtmanntal to the Mattertal. The view as you turn high above the valley is one of splendour. Unfortunately it was hazy and still some cloud about. A hot afternoon with temperatures in St. Niklaus 29 C at 4.30pm.

Final col, Augstboard

FRIDAY 22 JULY

Randa - Zermatt

Final day of this Walkers Haute Route trek. A grand finale in fitting with the entire 10 day trek. The route from Randa to Zermatt via the Europaweg is one of constant interest and stunning views. The longest footbridge in Europe above the Mattertal is for some people the highlight ( I call them Bridgeophiles). For me, it is the vast panorama of the mountains. The Weisshorn is in constant view for the entire rollercoaster walkway. Eventually The Matterhorn is seen as the path meanders up and down on narrow ledges and tunnels. Afternoon coke and ice-cream at Taschalp with a backdrop of the Tashorn before another steady late afternoon uphill trail with the Matterhorn now in full view above Zermatt. Journey's end at this bustling, historic town beneath the iconic mountain of the Alps.