TARMACHAN MOUNTAINEERING: IS IT SPRING YET?

Loch Coire an Lochain, Braeriach

What an absolutely stunning spell of glorious weather here in The Highlands. With a big High Pressure system sat slap bang over much of Scotland. This brought fine, sunny conditions and light or no winds up on the high summits. Cold, frosty mornings froze and firmed up the snowpack on the mountains. By late morning/midday the snow had softened up. It was certainly a great period to be up high on the hills to enjoy it. The SAIS Avalanche reports have now finished for the season. Does that mean Winter is over? There is still a lot of snow out there in The Cairngorms, especially.

My usual catch up over the last week or so.

MONDAY 12 APRIL

Richard and I had a stunning day on Braeriach. I've known Richard now for over 20 years, both of us working with groups on the mountains of Scotland. We decided on a day out up the finest of the Cairngorm hills. We both like to choose the best, most interesting and remoter routes. For me the Northern Corries of the UK's third highest mountain offer superb ways to the top. We set out from the Sugar Bowl carpark in glorious blue skies.

Snow at the start of the Chalamain Gap

The East end of the Chalamain Gap

Our first steps in snow was at the Calamain Gap, the entrance to the Lairig Ghru. Unfortunately the snow isn't all the way through this boulder area which always makes it much easier walking. At the Western end of the gap there was a delightful group of at least 6 Snow Bunting.

Male Snow Bunting

Reindeer enjoying the sunshine

Just further towards the Lairig Ghru we spotted 'the locals', the Cairngorm Reindeer grazing away in the warm sun. You get a fantastic view of Braeriach's Northern Corries from this point.

Braeriach's North Corries

Sgor Gaoithe

We left the 'standard' route up Braeriach and headed over to gain the fabulous ridgeline that bounds the northern slopes of the mountain. From about 850m we were walking in soft snow and it got very warm! In summer there is no paths whatsoever on this side of the hill. Routes for the connoisseur of wild walking. Under snow it's easier, as is often the case for pathless routes in Winter.

Snowline around 850m

Fabulous

Looking back to towards the Lairig Ghru

There were no other signs of human passage through here. I have never seen anyone is these Northern Corries in all the 50 + ascents from this side of the hill. No paths = no people. Most folk just tend to follow internet and guidebook routes where there are paths.

The start of the ridge

We soon gained the ridgeline that divides Coire Dearg and Loch Coire an Lochain. Wonderful walking in fresh snow which fell last week. The views just get better as you climb higher. The most impressive being down to the loch in Loch Coire an Lochain. One of the highest, most remote stretches of water in Britain. It is still frozen over with a fresh dusting of snow on the surface. Beautiful.

Loch Coire an Lochain

Rime iced rocks above 1050m

A winter looking coire

High above the coire

We like this

Above about 1050m the rocks were still coated in rime ice. This was probably from last weeks strong winds and precipitation. Beautiful to look at as we made the final few metres up to the plateau.

Rime ice

Normally the last 50 metres takes only a few minutes but it is such a wonderful spot to linger and take photos!

The view towards Strath Spey

The final slopes

The drop into Coire Dearg

There was an icy layer under the fresh snow but we didn't need crampons, only common sense and good Winter footwork. Up on the plateau it was just an expanse of unbroken snow. Not a single rock exposed as far as the eye could see. Usually at this point in mid April there would be patches of bare ground and rocks after successive melt and wind cycles, not this Winter. It really as been exceptional.

Braeriach's snow blanket

Unbroken snow on the plateau

It's just a short, easy, flattish stroll from here to the summit. In strong winds and poor visibility it is very different!

The cornices above Coire Brochain

Ben Macdui from the top

Cairn Toul above the Lairig Ghru

A lot of snow!

We descended the 'voie normale' route across the Sron na Lairig ridge. This keeps high for as long as possible to enjoy the views and sunshine!

The descent

There is a narrow section shortly after leaving the summit. In Winter and early Spring this is usually well banked up on one side and corniced over the edge on the other side. It is often icy too. Just like today! We donned the crampons and ice axe in hand for only 5 minutes to get across. A wise decision as it's a long slide down into the depths of the coire from here.

Fine views of Cairn Toul & Sgor an Lochan Uaine

Coire Bhrochain

Ben Macdui from the summit area

Ben Macdui & Lairig Ghru

A fabulous late afternoon saw us back through the Chalamain Gap. We had saw only a couple of folk on the hill all day, two near the top and two above the Allt Mor. What a day. Stunning and as always, great company, a good old blether and laughs.

Early evening views into Sneachda & Lochain

TUESDAY 13 APRIL

MOUNTAIN HARES!

Afternoon sunshine over the Cairngorms

A week is not a week in the hills without at least one visit to my local Mountain Hares. The day started off dull but by the afternoon it was beautifully sunny and feeling warm in the sunshine. The pelage on the Mountain Hare is now well into 'halfway there' from Winter to Spring. Looking very colourful and beautifully camouflaged. The lower hills were I go for the majority of photographing these beautiful creatures are now virtually bare of snow, being below 850m.

A delicate canter amongst the boulders

Can't beat a good scratch

The usual stretch and yawn after napping

I spent a couple of hours with one individual hare today. He was with her usual mate in a small rocky area. The mate popped off while she hung around lazing in the sunshine. I lazed on the warm heather and enjoyed the sun too as she sat, scratched and yawned before heading down for a nibble at the nearby heather. They can get incredibly at ease with you once you have gained their trust. She even turned her back on me a few times!

Back turned and dozing

Food!

Beautiful in the sunshine

Can you see her?

The cloud had lifted off the Cairngorms by the time I sauntered back down the hill and a beautiful ride home on the bike.

WEDNESDAY 14 APRIL

Rime ice in mid April

High pressure reigns supreme. Another glorious day up high in the Cairngorms. A clear, sunny and cold start to the day. My wildlife began early in the streets of Aviemore. We have a couple of families of Roe Deer that live amongst the houses in town. I caught a family of 3 mooching about in one of the streets. Beautiful creatures. They were here long before the new housing in Aviemore sprung up. I think we've invaded their patch, not the other way around!

Beautiful morning light in the streets of Dalfaber!

I headed up onto the Cairngorms wit the aim of capturing some Ptarmigan images. I kept well away from the usual walking routes and skiers. From leaving the carpark at Coire Cas I never saw another sole all day until 10 minutes before Coire Cas again. Go pathless!

Untrodden snow away from the usual routes

Mine and the Ptarmigan the only footprints today

Rime iced rocks at 1000m

I've been visiting an area that have provided me with Ptarmigan to photograph the last few weeks. I was hoping they were still in the same area. I was pleased they were!

Beautiful light on a beautiful hen Ptarmigan

Still a fair amount of Winter plumage showing

I came across a lovely pair of these wonderful birds. Quite happy with me being close by as they were grazing on the exposed vegetation between areas of snow. The hen of this pair still with beautiful Winter plumage and looking very fine in the sunshine. I spent an hour with these two, sitting on bare ground and for the first time this winter I had no big , warm coat and gloves on.

Male and female quite obvious this time of year

Male (Cock)

Female (Hen)

Heavy rime ice hanging on

I moved up the hill a bit further, amongst the boulders. The rocks were still clinging on to Rime Ice, even in the now warm sunshine. This rime was from last week when we had strong winds and precipitation. It was wonderful to see this time of year in bright sunshine.

Hen Ptarmigan and Rime Ice

He's not far away

Spot the Ptarmigan

I was so please to find another pair of Ptarmigan amongst these beautiful ice formations. This pair were sat right up next to the rimed rocks. Perfect photo opportunities that you don't see this time of year, normally. But it as been an extraordinary Winter, amazing Winter.

Strath Nethy

Beinn Mheadhoin

Cairn Gorm & Ciste Mhearad

After another hour with these guys I left them in peace and had a mooch about around the Ciste Mhearad area. Still lots of snow on the Eastern aspects of Cairn Gorm. I did contemplate heading up to the summit but why spoil a tranquil and peaceful day? I headed slowly back down the hill.

Rime

Before leaving the snow behind I spotted the Ptarmigan again. Not sure id these two guys were the same ones I saw earlier. Fabulous once again.

Still here

You'll need to count all the feathers to be certain it's the same pair!

Looking out for each other

A beautiful stroll back to civilisation. The temperatures had definitely gone up in the afternoon. What a glorious day to be out, especially amongst some of our special wildlife here in the Cairngorms.

Afternoon cloud

Fiacaill Coire Sneachda

THURSDAY 15 APRIL

Beinn Eighe & Liathach

For the second time this week I met up with Richard for a day out in the NW. Yet again a gorgeous day guaranteed. Clear skies and sunshine on the cards. We headed towards the Torridon area. So many choices. We hadn't actually decided what we were going to do. In the end we decided on a relatively relaxing, easy hill day with stunning views. Beinn a' Chearcaill was our choice.

Beinn Eighe soon in view

Some lingering snow on North aspects

A different and beautiful view of Beinn Eighe

This wonderful Graham ( hill between 2000ft - 2499 ft) lies amongst the 'giants' of Torridon at the edge of the Flowerdale Forest, between Glen Torridon and Loch Maree. It was Richard's first visit, mine the second. It has been some 20 odd years since I first walked here. On that occasion I did it 'the long way' from Torridon. Walking from Loch Maree side is much shorter. Despite the short distance there is a fair amount of pathless terrain so you need to be confident and competent with map and compass in cloudy conditions.

Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin from the summit

The wonderful Torridonian Sandstone 'flat' summit

A day for photography!

Some of the much lower mountains of Scotland offer exceptional views of nearby Munros. They should neve be dismissed! This is especially so in the most wonderful mountain area on the planet. We must have spent around 2 hours sitting about, photographing and pic-nic-ing on the top. There was a stiff , cold breeze even at this 725m altitude. Pretty chilly high up I would guess. Still very much Winter in the corries and high tops.

Mesmerising views to Liathach and Beinn Eighe

Looking into Coire Mhic Fhearchair of Beinn Eighe

Eventually we headed back down the hill with gorgeous late afternoon light.

Wonderful views of Slioch on the descent

Afternoon light

Slioch looking superb

A rocky mini garden

We got back to the road and finished off a fab day with a short walk down to the loch side. There are many spots along Loch Maree that offer superb views of Slioch with the loch and Caledonian Pines in the foreground. The more you venture from the road the more special it is.

Loch Maree & Slioch

Get in the water for that special picture!

Of course Loch Maree is not the correct name for this beautiful stretch of water. Loch Ewe is the correct name. Oh I wish folk would stop renaming, misnaming and corrupting mountain and place names!

Loch Ewe!

FRIDAY 16 APRIL

The Lairig Ghru & Braeriach

Back to my local Cairngorm hills today. Under blue skies and warm sun again! The usual cold, sub zero early mornings and warm by late morning scenarios. Could get quite used to this set up! High pressure that has been with us for many days still holding on. I went for another short wander in the Northern Cairngorms looking for Ptramigan to photograph.

Snow on East facing aspects above Lurchers Gully

The Coire Cas carpark now getting busier with the easing of travel restrictions. I quickly got off paths again and decided to head over to one of our quieter summits, but more interesting than many Munro in the area. Creag an Leth-choin or Lurchers Crag as it's been renamed/misnamed! I headed up the snow filled gully and gained the eastern slopes of the hill, pathless of course :)

The top of Lurchers Gully

Just before gaining the summit cairn I spotted two wonderful Ptarmigan where were well hidden in the rocky boulders.

Not expecting you!

Beautiful

This peak was once a 'Munro' summit but the powers that be decided to go against Sir Hugh Munro and 'demote', despite it reaching far above that magical 3000ft mark. All the better for it anyway. All the times I have been here I have only ever seen one or two folk on a handful of occasions. From the summit you get fine views looking down to the depths of the Lairig Ghru and can see virtually the entire length of it. The vista to Braeriach is superb also. You don't get to see any of this from Cairn Gorm!

Braeriach from the summit

The Lairig Ghru and Strathspey

I headed over towards Cairn Lochan and then dropped into Cire an Lochain. There is still a huge amount of snow in the coire. As I was walking down the Twin Burns area I noticed a few recent footprints with two huge holes that someone had obviously plunged into the burn below. The gap between the surface and the burn is about 1 metre! Don't follow footprints in the snow! Watch you don't go to far over, the snow is getting softer especially by mid day.

Cairn Lochan

Twin Burns area

Fabulous afternoon

The lochan is still only partially free of ice and snow. Still a long time yet for this lot to disappear. Two folk had just finished going for a dip in the water when I got down to the coire floor. It was now very hot in the sun and snow!

The only water free of snow

Ice

The melted blocks of ice from the big avalanche in February

Snow above 900m

SATURDAY 17 APRIL

Final day of High pressure sun and clear skies. We had a potter around Strathspey. Birdwatching, easy walks and swimming. If you want to avoid the crowds this Summer there are so many places to go. I'll not mention them here :).

Greylagg Geese, Clear skies ahead!

We've been caught

First Butterfly of the season

Northern Wheatear

Vulnerable egg

It's that time of year! Oystercatchers at it

Always a fine sight and sound

MONDAY 19 APRIL

A blip in the weather yesterday as a weak weather front passed through. Today back to warm and sunny. There was a S/SW airflow and a tad windier this morning. The temperatures soon rising. No gloves and no big jacket required for Wildlife photography today. Back with the hares. The Wheatear are showing well now and Golden Plover around. The sounds of Spring! Wonderful and peaceful again.