Thursday 18 November 2021

NAVIGATION, WILDDLIFE, TEMPERATURE INVERSIONS, SNOW & WARM!

 

Braeriach emerging out of an inversion, Saturday

The Winter season has got off to a sporadic start. Just the odd day of snow and cold conditions on the mountains, replaced by several warm fronts with temperatures soaring into double figures in Aviemore. Of course getting winter conditions for a prolonged spell in November is by no means an indicator that we would be in for a bumper season. Cast your mind back to the November of 2019 when we had some amazing, early and full winter conditions. That wonderful low lying snow was wiped out by December that year.  The following January was one of the worse January's for many a year with hardly any snow at all for that month! Most folk actually think November is still Autumn. Well, yes it technically is but the mountains offer something very different. It will often catch folk out. Keep checking my blog for the latest!

Here's some images and words from my last week or so in the hills and with work.

SATURDAY 6 NOVEMBER

With a very wet and windy day forecasted on the high tops, we decided on a good leg stretch at lower levels. The Dava Way is a long distance path that runs from Grantown-on-Spey to Forres.  We've done bits of it before but never in its entirety. Much of it is the old disused railway line  that ran between these two towns. 40km of very easy, flat walking most of the time. We hardly saw anyone, only the last few km's into Forres when there were a few locals wandering about.  We started at dawn and finished before dusk.  The last of the Autumn colours were the highlight. We had just 20 minutes of light rain and finished with 2 hours of lovely sunshine. I think I would bike it next time. An easy mountain bike ride.

40km of easy navigation 

Afternoon sunshine 

Last flush of Autumn colours 

Colourful walking

Last 10km into Forres

Quiet walking 


TUESDAY 9 NOVEMBER

Another mild day but a very pleasant one. The Mountain Hares are just starting to morph into their winter pelage. Spent an hour with this guy.

What a face

Curious

Not long now

No snow

Some lovely light at times.

Morning sun


WEDNESDAY 10 NOVEMBER

Another colder day and bright conditions. With only a moderate wind I had a day on the plateau to check out the Ptarmigan. Chilly out of the sun with summit temperatures around freezing point.

Cloudscapes again

Bright sun by midday

Ptarmigan terrain

Cairn Gorm and sun

It got warmer lower down

She's in her winter plumage 

THURSDAY 11 NOVEMBER 

A misty day up in the hills. It did look like it may clear so I walked over the Northern Corries after a look into Coire an Lochain. Up on the plateau it was cloud and mizzle. I walked back via The Goat Track and Coire an t-sneachda. 

Cloud and mist to the North 

Meall a Bhuachaille
Not many folk out today. I saw just 3 people.

Coire an Lochain 

A glimmer of a view
By dusk we had dramatic clouds and a beautiful end to the day.
Wonderful cloud and light

The Golden Hour
SATURDAY 12 NOVEMBER 

A promise from the weather forecasts of a lovely day in store. Pleasant conditions of  light winds with a small ridge of high pressure over much of the Highlands. We headed up to the Cairngorms and planned a walk over to Ben Macdui. 
Fog Bow on Ben Macdui 

We had set off pre-dawn and were hoping for an early morning temperature inversion. Sadly the cloud was above us and not below. We were soon walking in clag at the 800m contour. We reached the summit of Macdui before 9am. It was damp, chilly and completely viewless. The layers were on and the flasks were out. We waited patiently and trusted the weather forecast which promised bright sunshine by 11am.

Sgurr an Lochain Uaine & Braeriach out of the inversion 

We had only waited an hour before the magic unfolded. First signs of some brightness was the sun trying to burn through the thin cloud cover. Soon we had a Fog Bow forming right beside us with a Broken Spectre thrown in. Brilliant. Slowly the Braeriach- Cairn Toul plateau appeared above the cloud.
Fog Bow and Temperature Inversion

Minute by minute the stunning inversion unfolded. The peaks of Cairn Toul,  Sgorr an Lochain Uaine and Braeriach emerged from the top of the cloud. Absolutely wonderful. I've seen lots of temperature inversions over many years and I am always spellbound at their shear beauty. One of the finest spectacles you can witness in the mountains. 
The mountains revealed 

The sun burns the  cloud away eventually 
By 10 am the sun made a full appearance on the high tops with the inversion still lingering in some corries and glens.

The granite tors of Beinn Mheadoin


Beinn Mheadhoin and Garbh Uisge

We returned to the carpark via the beautiful and pathless Garbh Uisge. Below 950m we were back in the cloud. Wonderful, quiet and wild walking as we made our way over to the Northern Corries path.
Loch A'an and in the sun again

Cairn Lochan looking south

More cloud formations above Coire an t-sneachda

By late afternoon the cloud had dispersed again and it was clear skies further to the North. We  walked back up hill  from the Feithe Buidhe area and to the summit of Cairn Lochan. We wandered across the tops and enjoyed the warm late afternoon sunshine. With the low sun the light was just magic.  On the Northern side of the Cairngorms it was clear but within just a few minutes a sheet of low level cloud once again drifted into the coire whilst the tops were in clear skies. It seemed like the cloud was determined to form another inversion, just for us! 
Clouds below Alladin's Seat

A golden Cairn Gorm & Pygmy Ridge

Beautiful cloudscapes

Loch Morlich peeping through the cloud blanket

The golden hour came and went. As the sun started to set we reluctantly walked down from 1141m and into fading light. A fabulous dawn to dusk walk in stunning cloud formations.

Derry Cairngorm poking above the clouds at dusk

Moon rise and The Belt of Venus above Beinn Mheadoin

Sunset behind the Fiacaill Coire Sneachda ridge

MONDAY 15 NOVEMBER

Father and daughter team Ali & Katherine were out with me on a day of Navigation and Wildlife photography. Yes, you can do both in a day if you choose to go with a flexible and enthusiastic company who don't set fixed, open group days.  This was a Birthday present from Katherine to her Dad who was keen to brush up on his navigation skills and to use his new camera for some terrific wildlife we have here in The Cairngorms. They had initially booked for the Tuesday but the Monday was a much nicer day. I always try to provide a flexible approach to a day in the hills with regards to going on the best weather for the activity. It turned out to be a cracking day. 
After a look at maps, compasses and planning a route in the comfort of an Aviemore cafe we set out to the Northern Cairngorms. It was warm sunshine at Coire Cas and even up to the 900m level.
Map reading in sun and no wind
We soon made our journey onto pathless terrain, high up on the Cairngorm plateau.  We navigated to one of my favourite locations to photograph the Ptarmigan. A flock of 8  Ptarmigan were  spotted flying nearby which was wonderful. Then we saw a pair at my regular and reliable area.

Ptarmigan in her winter plumage


A pair of Ptarmigan high up

A different pair
We spent lots of time with one particular pair of these amazing birds. Some wonderful Autumn gold background was behind the birds. This made some fab bokeh to frame the image. A fab colour contrast. The Ptarmigan are now in their winter plumage. 


Mountain hare
Back to some more navigation in the afternoon as we walked higher up the hill. On our navigation route we spotted 2 Mountain Hare and a flock of Snow Bunting. 

Snow Bunting
Time was ticking by with only an hour or so of light left. We gained the summit of Cairn Gorm to catch the golden hour, most photographers favourite time of day. We weren't disappointed. Some beautiful colours, light and clouds. The only person we saw close up all day was Chris Townsend on the summit area. He was also out with his camera to capture the beautiful cloudscapes. 

Moon rise

Cloudscapes around Ben Macdui

Moon and the Belt of Venus

Chris Townsend capturing the glorious skies
After savouring the views we finished the day off with a final hour of night navigation from 1141m back to the carpark.  A brilliant day.

Sunset

Some night navigation to end the day

WEDNESDAY 17 NOVEMBER 
John was out with me on a Landscape Photography Workshop. Another Birthday present (with a Tarmachan Mountaineering Gift Voucher) from his friends. Landscape Photography in winter can throw up many challenges and we are always at the mercy of the weather. After coffee in the cafe we decided to go up onto the Cairngorm plateau and see what we could achieve, despite a less than promising weather forecast. 
Coire an Lochain 

Twin Burns

The cliffs of Coire an Lochain 

There had been another drop in temperature last night and precipitation which gave a sprinkling of snow above 850m. There was some ice down to the paths near Coire Cas carpark. We walked into Coire an Lohain. It was nicely sheltered here from the strong Westerly winds.

Coire an Lochain 

Higher up on the summit of Cairn Lochain the winds were strong but nothing we couldn't cope with. John did well in getting some good shots in the challenging winds.
1100m

Rimed rocks and grasses

Macro photography 

It was below freezing on the tops but the temperatures were slowly rising as the day wore on. We walked over to one of my favourite spots in the entire Cairngorms, the Loch A'an basin. It was cloudy on the walk across with poor visibility so I had the compass out. Luckily the cloud lifted to get some good photo opportunities for John.
Moody winter inages

The cliffs of Cairn Lochan 

Windswept 

Photographing Hells lum

Hells Lum


We made our way back via The Northern Corries path in the gloomy light. We had only saw 2 distant people all day. Great day out and good banter. Looking forward to seeing John's images.
Fiacaill Coire Sneachda ridge 








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