TORRIDON, MY KIND OF PLACE

 

Torridon village & Liathach

It seems like blogs are back in vogue. Did they even go away? I've been writing regular blogs on blogger since they came on the scene back in 2007. 

Walkabout Scotland based in Edinburgh have asked me to write a guest blog. Here it is. It should be on their website shortly.

Twenty eight years ago I lived and worked in a very special place on our planet called Torridon.  This small village in the North West Highlands of Scotland is spread out along a short section of single track road and enjoys a stunning position on the shores of Upper Loch Torridon.  The magnificent Liathach rises abruptly from the village and is the most dominating mountain in the area. There is a Youth Hostel nestled below The Grey One and it was here that I worked for a time. It became the first place I lived in Scotland after moving up from my birth place, Merseyside. I had visited Torridon on several occasions prior to making a home here, the first time was with my brother on 2 week holiday staying in the slightly bigger and nearby village of Lochcarron. In those days my interest in mountaineering was in its infancy and I hadn't set foot on these impressive hiĺls that soar up from sea level to over 1000 metres. The second visit was a few years later with my mountaineering club when we spent a five day trip based out of the Scottish Mountaineering Club's The Ling Hut,  just a few miles down Glen Torridon from the village. On that adventure we climbed the mountains of Beinn Alligin and Beinn Eighe. Liathach was to be the final days walking but heavy rain diverted us to the Applecross peninsula for a low level stroll and cafe. The area, landscape and mountains had already cast its spell on me. I'd never imagined mountains like this could exist. From the roadside they look impregnable with no signs of any trail leading up to their dizzy heights.

Scrambling on Liathach with Glen Torridon below

Over the course of the following years I have walked and scrambled along these mountains many times, with over 200 ascents each of Liathach and Beinn Alligin alone. They never fail to impress, no matter what the weather or time of year. Many of the summits require steep ascents and are narrow ridge walks which require a good head for heights. Some also involve the use of hands as well as feet. This is called scrambling. Scrambling is that grey area between hillwalking and rock climbing. Most people would not need a rope for security if you have some prior experience of walking on steeper, more rugged mountains with some exposed ridges.

Coire Dubh Mor, one of the easy, low level walks from Glen Torridon

Liathach is just one of many wonderful mountains that bound both sides of Glen Torridon. The road that leaves the even smaller village Kinlochewe and 10 miles later arrives at Torridon  is one of the finest and most scenic roads in the Highlands. But you need to get out of your vehicle and explore this wonderful place by foot. If you aren't an experienced hillwalker there are many stunning lower level walks that leave from or near the village.

If you aren't sure of your abilities with navigation Gary Hodgson of Tarmachan Mountaineering runs bespoke days out in the mountains, including the Torridon area throughout the year. If you would prefer a group tour with accommodation,  transport and meals taken care of check out Walkabout Scotland who run tours from Edinburgh to many destinations in the Highlands. 

Beinn Damph, one of the easier hills in Torridon

Loch Clair & Liathach an easy stroll

Glen Torridon lies in the Wester Ross region of the Highlands. Only 90 minutesdrive from Inverness. The geology here is fascinating. Torridonian Sandstone dominates many of the mountains including my favourite, An Teallach. An Teallach, The Forge lies further to the north of Glen Torridon but still retains the unique geological formations of the Torridon Mountains.  The base rocks consist of Lewisian gneiss and are some of the oldest rocks in Europe dating over 500 million years. The Torridon Sandstone which over lays the gneiss was originally formed where North America now lies. Over a long period of time the sandstone has drifted across the Atlantic Ocean and slipped over the gneiss rocks. Many of the higher summits are capped with much younger rocks, quartzite. These geological rock formations and strata give the Torridon Mountains their unique shape, colour and layering structure.

Liathach with its Torridonian rock formations

Coire Mhic Fearchair &the Tripple Buttress of Beinn Eighe

Liathach is a long, slender ridge and to walk from end to end is one of the finest ridge traverses in Scotland. If you get a chance and you are fine with heights then give it a go, you will be mesmerised! All the scrambling is along the middle section of the ridge. You have to stop now and again to take all the scenery in. It's a mountain to linger on and savour. 

On Liathach's ridge looking north

Sunrise from Liathach

Coire na Caime, Liathach

The 'Big 3', as I call them, are a fine objective if you are a fit hillwalker with some scrambling experience and have 3 days in the area. The mountains of Liathach, Beinn Eighe and Beinn Alligin are the finest mountains in the region. Beinn Alligin is the easiest and shorter day of them all, requiring  around 7-8 hrs of walking. A wonderful horseshoe  circuit with views out to sea for most of the day.  Beinn Alligin is the most westerly of these mountains. 

Beinn Alligin above Upper Loch Torridon

Temperature inversion on Beinn Alligin

Sunset over Beinn Alligin

The third of this fine trio is Beinn Eighe. This is a very long ridge walk and if you do the entire length (starting at Kinlochewe and finishing at the Coire Dubh Mor carpark) it will take you around 9/10 hours. A superb roller coaster of a day with many tops and summits along a narrow ridge. Most people who climb it actually only do a shorter version, climbing the two Munros which this mountain boasts. However long or short you make the route you will not be disappointed. 

Beinn Eighe and Loch Clair

Quartz rocks predominate on a good chunk of the ridge

Looking East from Liathach to Beinn Eighe's long ridge

There are many more mountains that can be accessed from Glen Torridon and not all of these are Munro height. If you're looking for a shorter day or a lower level walk there are many options. These walks and hills are by no means less exciting or beautiful. They boast fine view points of the bigger mountains and are much quieter with less people walking on them than the bigger Munro walks.

Beinn Eighe & Liathach from Beinn a' Chearcaill

The journey from Torridon to Ullapool (The largest town in the NW Highlands) along the wonderful coastal road is one of shear splendour. Mountains and lochs are constantly in view. This road has been here for many generations of course, long before a road trip called the NC500 was ever 'invented'. My journey from Torridon to Ullapool was of a more leisurely pace. I lived on Skye for a while before spending 5 wonderful years in Ullapool. I worked in the youth hostel in this small town. Ullapool was a major fishing town many years ago. Tourism is now the main income for people who live and work here. The mountains,  glens and ground in between Torridon and Ullapool  I have explored continuously over many years. I could easily and happily spend a lifetime here.

Slioch above Loch Maree

Slioch 

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Loch Broom & The Summer Isles from Ullapool

From a base in Ullapool you have so many superb areas and mountains to explore. An Teallach ( The Forge) is only a short drive from the town. This mountain is very special to me. I have climbed it, photographed it and admired it so many times I have lost track. If I could only ever go up one mountain in my lifetime it would be An Teallach.

An Teallach

An Teallach is a huge and complex mountain sitting on the shores of Little loch Broom. The hill has many ridges and summits, most of them are straight forward to ascend. There are two Munro summits which are usually gained from the tiny settlement of Dundonnell on Little Loch Broom.  This route is suitable for walkers with some experience and of reasonable fitness. You set off from sea level and reach  Bidein a' Glas Thuill at a height of 1062 metres.. After 3 hours of walking you are rewarded with the classic view of the mountains North East face with it's crenelated peaks rising steeply above the lonely and peaceful Loch Toll an Lochain.

Scrambling along the Corrag Buidhe pinnacles

Narrow ridges leading up to Sgurr Fiona

The classic circuit of the mountain is to continue onto Sgurr Fiona, An Teallach's other Munro. From here a fine horseshoe ridge walk 

can be done by scrambling over the Corrag Buidhe pinnacles. This requires a head for heights and some previous 'hands on rock' experience. 

Winter is by far my favourite time of year. When these mountains receive their cloak of snow and ice they look even more spectacular. The North West Highlands in general are very quiet from November through to March. Most visitors have disappeared by late Autumn, the roads are quiet, the villages are very quiet even Ullapool looses the crowds. It is a very fine time to see the area. To tackle these mountains in winter is a much more serious undertaking.  You will need clothing and equipment for winter hillwalking and mountaineering. The skills required are many. The pleasures are enormous. Tarmachan Mountaineering  run winter skills courses from November to April. 

Torridon dwarfed by the winter mountains

On Beinn Eighe's ridge in early winter

Beinn Alligin in full winter conditions

If you have no winter experience it is a good idea to get some winter skills training with a suitably qualified person or company. A course on how to use ice axes and crampons correctly along with a host of other vital skills will put you in good stead to go hillwalking in winter.

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An Teallach in winter

An Teallach from Toll an Lochain

Beinn Liath Mor and Liathach in the distance

Winter dawn over Meall Chean-dearg

We have some of the most iconic wildlife here in the Scottish Highlands. If I'm not up high walking along ridges and up to the high summits I will often be roaming around the hills and lower areas photographing our wildlife. My speciality is Mountain Hare and Ptarmigan. Both of these species are found in the Torridon mountains. They live high up and all year round. Ptarmigan are a member of the grouse family and can only be found above about 500 metres. They have 4 changes of plumage through the year, reflected in the seasons. Their feathers are completely white for camouflage in the winter months from potential predators.

Ptarmigan in Summer 

Ptarmigan in winter plumage

Mountain Hare also transform in the winter. The hares are Scotland's only native hare or rabbit. They are the most adorable of our wildlife (according to me!). To get close and to photograph them you need lots of patience, fieldcraft and prior knowledge of where they live. Like a lot of wildlife they will tend to stay in the same, relatively small area.

Mountain Hare in Summer

In winter

Everyone's favourite animals in the Highlands are Red Deer and Highland Cows. These are easily seen from the roadside but please don't be tempted to feed them. The deer are wild animals and once they get used to people feeding them they are no longer 'wild' and will forever rely on food that is not their normal diet. If you see them at the roadside then stop, admire, photograph and marvell. Don't feed them.

Red Deer hinds high up on Beinn Eighe

This guy doesn't want your sandwiches or any other food you have

If you're visiting our wonderful country do try and get off the tourist trail and usual 'honey pots'. Take a few days, a week, two weeks or maybe your whole holiday in this beautiful part of the world. Get out of the car, get your boots on and explore at leisure the Torridon area.

The Fisherfield Forest and An Teallach 

LAST SCHEDULED WINTER COURSE

 

Axe, Winter boots and good navigation essential 

I ran my last scheduled winter course of the season last weekend. Sometimes our winter runs into May and my 'record' for running a Winter course was last year, in the middle of May. In the last 10 winter seasons I have been teaching folk axe, crampons and a host of other 'skills' in snow into the merry month of May. With the very warm temperatures we've had recently and the rapidly depleted snow pack I think I will draw a line under this winter season.

On Sunday I was joined by Sarah who was looking for a day out in the snow. The cloudbase was very low in the NE airstream. Whilst the sun beat down on many west and NW coastal mountains we were in the clag all day.

Clag and snow

Going on a course with someone who is based in the area will always pay dividends to get the most out of the conditions. Within an hour from Coire Cas carpark we were into good areas of continuous snow to run through lots of vital skills.

Steeper terrain

Plateau white out

Up on the plateau it was even poorer visibility. Good navigation essential, especially on the big areas of snow above 1000m. We headed over to the snowholes that were still intact. The summit temperatures today were around plus 2 C. Low enough to keep the snow for a good while yet.

Snowholes

Good in here

Room for a few

Even a basement 

Some navigation required across the plateau. Whiteout conditions for a period. Navigation required even for someone like me who frequents the Cairngorm plateau several times a week over many years. I had to whip out map and compass to get over to the Northern Corries and back down the hill.

More navigation in whiteout conditions 

We saw no one all day and when we got back to the carpark it was almost deserted. Peculiar for a Sunday.  Then again, good to see that folk are being cautious if your skill set is not geared towards late winter in the Cairngorms on a poor visibility day.

Today I was guiding for Mckenzie Mountaineering. 

So that's it. Winter 2021/22 has come to an end. Unless we get a good cold snap and fresh snowfall. That's not unusual this time of year.

Watch out for my usual end of season blog. Some say it was a 'poor' winter. Me thinks not! 

CORBETT COMPLETION

On Wednesday last week I spent 3 days in the hills with John Allen.

At a young 83 years of age I had the privilege to join him on his final Corbett, Beinn a'Chasgein Mor in the spectacular, wild and wonderful Fisherfield Forest. 

John was my landlord for 9 years when I lived in Killin. 

He's the most unassuming mountaineer that I have had the pleasure to know. He started his long and amazing life in the mountains at the age of 17 when he went on a school Alpine climbing trip with his teacher (that would be unheard of in today's world). Since then, he has climbed extensively in The Alps, Scotland and the Greater Ranges. I've had some amazing days in the hills with John on Scottish winter climbs, scrambles and saunters up Munros and Corbett’s. John has a lifetime of climbing adventures, far too many to list here.

His final Corbett he savoured over a 3-day trip. Cycling in on a 17-year-old bike, bivvying at Carnmore with a 40 yr old down jacket and 3 lunches of 4-day old jam butties to get him to his last Corbett. 

We finished in a pub (of course).

The magnificent Fisherfield Forest

What a fitting finale of finishing these hills by saving Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor for your last. This mountain lies in the Fisherfield Forest. It must rank as one of, if not the most remote Corbett. Sitting adjacent to the Munro of A' Mhaigdhean which is reputed to be the furthest Munro from any road. John had decided to cycle in from Poolewe on the morning of Wednesday 19th April. I couldn't get to Poolewe until mid afternoon so we had decided on meeting up at Carnmore that evening. The walk in from Poolewe to the farm at Kernsary is on good tracks, well suited to using a bike and saving some leg work. John had cycled in on his 17 year old mountain bike, loaded with bivvy gear for two nights. From Kernsary the route into the hills continues through some forestry, eventually coming out into open moorland and the first sight of the mountains. The narrow, well-maintained path from here to the shooting lodge at Carnmore is a walk of wonderful delight with the mountains of the Fisherfield and Letterwe directly in front of you. If you ever tire of this walk with views like this then I am sorry but you should just give up walking in the mountains and go and do some jigsaw puzzles.

Beinn Liar beyond one of the many lochans 

A' Mhaighdean in glorious late afternoon light

Carnmore Crag

Dubh Loch

A' Mhaighdean snd Dubh Loch

The private shooting lodge at Carnmore sits directly underneath the impressive Carnmore Crag & Sgurr na Laocainn. It looks oddly out of place given this is such a remote and wild area. A bygone age of romanticism in the Highlands, shooting stags for pleasure and resting up in luxury. It's still used of course but mostly in the stalking season of late summer/autumn. This evening we had the place to ourselves apart from one guy passing through. We sat in the warm evening sun. John was telling me of his rock-climbing days when he and his mate climbed for a week on the impressive and remote Carnmore Crag directly above us. They lugged 90-pound rucksacks in to the very same spot in the 1970's. Ladened with climbing equipment, camping gear and food for a week of hardcore climbing. John and his pal climbed routes such as Gob and Dragon.

Our summit lies just above these crags. Tomorrow we were off to tackle the hill with just a pair of walking boots, hands free. I did ask John why they hadn't 'bagged' the summit of Beinn A' Chaisgein Mor while they were so close from the climbing crag. He told me the summit wasn't important in his climbing days.

Dubh Loch at the Golden Hour

The wind had increased during the night but it was another glorious sunny morning. Wonderful to wake up and sit outside the tent with no damn midges! Bliss. We set off up the hill and a step closer to John's final Corbett. Of course, when you're a young whipper snapper and into running or technical biking you could get to the top of this hill in a long day from Poolewe. When you're 83 you will be going at a more leisurely pace. John & I were enjoying savouring the area, weather and each other’s company. John has a life time of climbing adventures and you could spend several days hearing about his terrific exploits on mountains around the world.

John nearing the top

The network of stalkers paths in this area are some of the finest trails in the Highlands. It's sheer joy to walk in these mountains. I've traversed these hills numerous times, in all directions and all times of year. My last visit to Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor was over 20 years ago when I combined it with a bivvy on A' Mhaighdean during the summer solstice. The final stretch to the top is on a beautiful, easy angled, long and pathless slope. The wind was strong but it was never going to stop John getting to his final Corbett.

The Torridon mountains to the west

Fisherfield Munros to the north

John at his final Corbett 

john was well chuffed with his achievement, rightly so. We sat out of the wind, in the sun and savoured the moment. John tucked into his 3-day old jam butties like a true mountaineer. 

Sheltered
We retraced our steps back down to Carnmore for a second night. We hadn't seen anyone all day. Brilliant stuff.

Great views on the descent 

An Teallach looking fine

Late afternoon views

Back at Carnmore it was another glorious evening. More camp food, more old mountain stories, more laughs, more 3-4 days old readymade food.

Back near Carnmore 

Friday morning and another glorious day. Wall to wall sun and no wind this morning. No midges too, of course. We made a leisurely start on the walk back out. Plenty of stops to soak in the views.

Friday morning light on A' Mhaighdean 

Letterewe reflections

Beinn Arigh Charr 

Back to the hustle and bustle of Poolewe. We were both looking forward to food and a pint at the only hotel in the village. We were turned away from the Poolewe Hotel, the reception telling us 'Resident's only' at 6.30pm with 1 car in the carpark. Brilliant. Tourism at its finest.

A well earned pint

That wasn't going to stop us celebrating. We made it to Gairloch for grub and a pint.

Sunset at Loch Ewe, finner than the hotel welcome

A fantastic few days. John says he's not doing any more big days out in the hills. I don't believe it. Here's to many more adventures in the mountains.