Sunday 21 May 2023

A WEEK IN TORRIDON

 

The classic view of Liathach

The blog has been getting a bit neglected recently. Too many trips away I guess and a general decline in numbers of folk looking at blogs. So if you want my blog to continue then get hitting the link and support it! Unlike other blogs I am not asking for cash :)

Anyway, back to it. Just back from a fabulous wee of walking in Torridon, the finest mountains on this planet, as you know. My annual week long guided walking week which is always the second week in May was fantastic for weather this year. I did have a few folk interested but they dithered. I had someone interested in An Teallach but they didn't commit, likewise Liathach. The top two mountains on Earth! Come on folks, there's more to mountains than the trudge up the Ben Nevis tourist path you know, :) . However Campbell, Amanda & John did come out with me for two separate days. The rest of the time I devoted to days out with my camera on the finest mountains you will ever need!

The Horns of Beinn Alligin
Before setting off the long term weather forecast was 'changeable and 'mixed'. How wrong were they? While the south of England got floods and London Village had a bit of rain, the NW Highlands enjoyed beautiful conditions. I set off with a bike ride from Achnasheen to Kinlochewe on Saturday. A great way to start my trip. The cafe at Achnasheen, The Midge Bite is one of the best cafes in the Highlands. Great food and friendly service. Take note all those 2 and 3 star hotels who I would never grace my presence in again, you know who you are ;)

It was good to see about a dozen bikes parked up outside the Midge Bite, more numbers than cars. It's only 10 miles to Kinlochewe and a lovely bike ride. I was  based at the Kinlochewe Hotel for 8 nights. Joined by Campbell for 3 of those later in the week.
Liathach with Beinn Alligin & Beinn Dearg to the right

Sunday 7th May.
Absolutely wonderful day on the second finest mountain on the planet, Liathach.
Started this morning with a beautiful push bike ride from Kinlochewe up Glen Torridon, the finest glen on the planet. Lovely and quiet with very few cars at 0830. By the time I got on Liathach's Eastern most top, Stuc a Coire Dubh Bhig, the thin, high level cloud dispersed and wonderful sunshine & light for the classic view of this amazing ridge.
Across the pinnacles, the best part of the day, fun, fun, fun. Many groups bypass Liathach's finest features, taking a dodgy, horrible and frankly dangerous lower traverse path which also misses out all the views to the north. It was wonderful and quiet.
The final Munro summit on the western end gives the most wonderful finale with stupendous views of Upper Loch Torridon and sweeping views to the north.
T-shirt job most of the day. And no midges! My leisurely walk across the tops to get some (proper) photography with the proper camera ( you'll have to wait) was timed with the early evening bike ride back down the glen, beautiful light and the road lovely and peaceful.
A top day. Over 200 traverses of Liathach and I still get excited every single time.


Monday 8th May.
The Torridon Munros had their heads in the cloud all day today. A day for a wee hill with more chance of a cloud free summit. The mountain of
Beinn A' Mhuinidh 692m dominates the views has you drive into Kinlochewe from the East. Its steep, craggy flanks give it an impressive stature and presence for its relatively low height. Surprisingly I've never actually walked up it. The countless times I've been on Slioch and walked underneath its slopes and pondered many times of going up it. Much of the hills Southern and Western flanks are very steep with smooth slabbed rock. Choosing an easy walking route requires some careful map work. There is no path of any kind up it once you leave a glen.
I made a circuit by heading up the far reaches of the beautiful and seldom visited
Gleann Bianasdail. If continued right through this glen it eventually brings you out at the wonderful Lochan Fhada, on the edge of the Fisherfield Forest. I left the trail after visiting the many wee waterfalls on the walk through. From the glen to the summit it is entirely pathless. Guaranteed to see no one. I did see plenty of deer though. I made a good choice, the top was free of cloud.
The return to Kinlochewe was also entirely pathless and featureless, heading SE with many small lochan's, peat hags and delightful gorges. If you intend on 'bagging' all the Graham's you will find most of these hills will be of similar terrain! I think I've done about half of the 224 hills on the Graham's list. Maybe I should make a point of completing them?
The threat of a wet day didn't happen. A completely dry outing after some early, light rain.


Tuesday 9th May.
Another brilliant day in Torridon.
A forecast of sunshine & showers usually delivers some good photography conditions. Hopeful of some nice light I got up to one of the peaks in the Flowerdale Forest. These lower hills give fabulous views into the North faces of all the big, famous Torridon Munros. Especially fine is the view into Beinn Eighe's Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
A beautiful push bike ride alongside Loch Maree to start the day, what wonderful views. It was down to t-shirt conditions on the walk up the hill. An hour from the summit a big, heavy downpour rolled in from the west. Impeccable timing, I reached the summit when the clouds dispersed it dried up and some bright sunshine. I spent over an hour photographing the fine views of Beinn Eighe, Liathach, Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin. Stupendous views.
On the decent a couple of lighter, shorter showers sparked off in the warm conditions. A lovely rainbow at one point.
Down at Loch Maree I waited another hour or so whilst a shower passed through before beautiful evening light on the Caledonian Pines and Slioch. Always stunning vistas from many parts of the Loch. Big bonus of a Black Throated Diver flew in and landed on the Loch, unaware of my presence. Special moments.
The day rounded off with a glorious evening bike ride bike to Kinlochewe.



Thursday 11th May.
A beautiful day in the finest mountains on Earth, Torridon.
Today's jaunt on Beinn Eighe I was joined by Campbell. We had a top day of ridge walking in beautiful sunshine.
My annual week long trip has seen some brilliant weather and the high pressure system will be over the NW Highlands again tomorrow and Saturday. Turning out into a fine week.
Top day, top company amongst the finest mountains you could wish for.




Friday 12th May.
Another stonking day in Torridon.
Wall to wall sunshine, warm with a lovely gentle breeze so not too hot. T-shirt job all day on Beinn Alligin. Setting off at 10am meant I was behind the crowds and lovely and peaceful. The day finished off nicely with 15 miles of beautiful road cycling (bike with no engine, thankfully road bikes haven't gone like mountain bikes with engines on them) back to Kinlochewe, through the finest glen on the planet.



Saturday 13th May.
Another top day in Torridon.
Amanda & John out with me today on Liathach. Their first time scrambling and they breezed along the wonderful, spectacular ridge. They gained confidence as we progressed. The couple have already notched up half of the Munros.
My second Traverse of Liathach in less than a week. What a way to finish my annual week long guiding in Torridon. If you're keen to join me in 2024 I have already someone booked on.
Another warm and sunny day, some high level cloud in the afternoon and a breeze. A brilliant week of weather.




Amanda & John have already booked a day for May 2023! An Teallach next time.

If you would like to join onto my Torridon week in 2024 then let me know asap. I've secured 4 rooms at the Kinlochewe Hotel for May 2024 (mega rare!) Details on request.








No comments: