THE TORRIDON HAUTE ROUTE

 

Sunrise on Liathach

27 years ago, whilst living in Torridon, I decided on walking the Torridonian giants of Beinn Eighe, Liathach & Beinn Alligin in a 24 hour walk on a beautiful June day. Since that time I have traversed each of these hills well over 200 times. With a big high pressure sat slap bang over the Highlands last week I thought it was about time I repeated this amazing walk. On this occasion I took a more leisurely approach and wanted to camp out on the summits enjoying the sunsets and sun rises every day with photography a big theme. Back in 1995 I was taking slides with a DSLR camera. How times have changed. There were no mobile phones back then and the hills (and roads) were much quieter. Here's my mini adventure in words and photography of this outstanding walk on the finest mountains in these isles.

MONDAY 23 AUGUST

BEINN EIGHE

Evening light on Sgurr Ban, Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe's huge ridge begins above the small village of Kinlochewe, at the eastern end of Glen Torridon. The ridge comprises many Munro 'tops' and high ground above 900m. Of all the thousands of folk who climb this mountain only a fraction of them actually begin from Kinlochewe, most folk only walk the two Munro summits which lie much further west along the ridge. I had a late afternoon start of 3pm. It was still very hot in the glen with clear skies and only a light breeze, just enough to keep the midges at bay.

The steep ridge leading up to Beinn Eighe's easternmost summit

There is now an excellent path that leads up to the mountain's first summit, Creag Dubh. The well made path follows the beautiful Allt a' Chuim. I think the trail was never this good years ago. There is a fine cluster of Scots Pine on the western side of this gorge, above the river. The Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve have actively been trying to regenerate this lower hillside over many years. It would be wonderful to see more of these Caledonian Pines on the mountains lower reaches.

Allt a' Chuim

Creag Dubh & Slioch

It's a steep and craggy pull up from where the good path finishes and the ascent to the first peak. Despite going 'lightweight' my rucksack was certainly heavier than I wanted, it must have been all those tea time treats! It was great to finally arrive at Creag Dubh and the start of the ridge. Ahead of me lies the only real scrambling on Beinn Eighe, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe (The Black Carls). This jumble of rocky pinnacles comprises entirely of quartzite rock. Some of this is loose and the bypass paths around the scrambling are quite exposed in places. Much better to scramble on the solid rock and it's fun.

Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe & Loch Clair

Scrambling fun

Rocky towers of quartzite

After negotiating the scrambling the rest of the ridge is an easy, high level roller coaster with wonderful views down to Glen Torridon and Loch Clair. Next summit is Sgurr Ban. Rough walking on quartzite rocks again, so typical of the higher sections of the Torridon mountains. The finest views of this peak are from the west. By this point it was now after 6pm and the evening light shining on Sgurr Ban was beautiful.

Sgurr Ban from the west

Beautiful light illuminating the white quartzite

Sgurr Ban & Loch Clair

After Sgurr Ban and another minor top you eventually climb up to the first of Beinn Eighe's Munro summits, Spidean Coire nan Clach. There was some light, high level cloud obscuring the setting sun as I made my way  over the the next top, A' Choinneach Mor. Along this section you get the first proper views of Liathach.

First view of Liathach from Spidean Coire an Clach

The Western section of Beinn Eighe is really the only bit of the mountain where there is a soft, grassy area to camp. The terrain here is a vast contrast from the eastern half of the mountain. I was very pleased to find enough small pools of water for a brew and cooking on the flat, grassy area just below Coinneach Mhor.

My neighbours at camp

Dusk above Liathach from camp

I had a fabulous camp spot with wonderful views of Liathach. The local Red Deer seemed curious and they were not expecting anyone on their hill I suspect. I had seen no one since leaving Kinlochewe. The only life was 3 flocks of Ptarmigan, Wheatear, Snow Bunting and around a dozen Red Deer. During the night a stunning orange/red moon rose into the night sky. Of course it wasn't red, the thin veil of high cloud just gave this stunning illusion. I hadn't taken a tripod on this trip unfortunately so any low light, nigh images were never going to be taken.

TUESDAY 24 AUGUST

BEINN EIGHE-LIATHACH

First light on Liathach

A fine dawn broke on Beinn Eighe. Up at 6am to photograph the slowly rising sun over the Fannaichs. Sunrise photography is a bit more relaxing at this time of the year. No very early, silly out of bed times! Some amazing colours in the eastern sky over the Beinn Eighe ridge.

Sunrise over the Fannaichs

My friends were up early too

Morning moon over Liathach

Suns up!

Beinn Eighe ridge skyline

After 30 minutes watching the sun rising in the east my attention switched to Liathach. With this side of the mountain facing north there is only a few hours to capture the mountain and dawn light properly with no sun glare. It won't be that long before  these magnificent corries of the world's second finest mountain are in shade again. I sat and watched the subtle, soft light changing, minute by minute. 

Spidean a' Choire Leith & Coire na Caime, Liathach

North face of Liathach in dawn light

After breakfast it was time to pack up and onwards along the other tops of Beinn Eighe: Coinneach Mhor, Sail Mhor and finally the mountains second Munro, Ruadh-stac Mor.

My camp spot

I still had the entire mountain to myself. I sat and watched the magnificent Coire Mhic Fhearchair fill with sunlight. It's such a pity that a lot of folk just head up main paths to Munro summits without a bit of exploring for the finest view. This Munro in particular is one of many that the where the best views are hidden from the top. If you walk down just 5 minutes off the main path you get a stunning view into the mountains most supreme feature, The Triple Buttress and the coire.

Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Triple Buttress, Sail Mhor and Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Triple Buttress

I savoured the amazing rock scenery and loch all the way down into the coire. This is the mountains most well known and much visited feature. It is a place of grand crag and loch scenery. I was looking forward to fresh water which was plentiful amongst the many springs and pools below the enormous Triple Buttress. I marvelled at this  place before heading down on the excellent path out and back to the glen.

Coire Mhic Fhearchair & Triple Buttress

Sail Mhor

By late morning the temperatures had risen again. A very hot day in store. On the walk down to Glen Torridon I was thinking of gaining my next mountain, Liathach via the steep eastern buttress from the upper reaches of Coire Dubh Mor. This way onto the mountain is infrequently climbed. A pathless route can be made onto some Grade 2 scrambling higher up which then leads to Liathach's eastern most top, Stuc a' Choire Dhuibh Bhig. A hot day, big rucksack and pathless ascent with added scrambling didn't appeal. This is the route I did 27 years previously and I do remember it well. I was younger then and only had a small day sack! The only other non climbing chinks in Liathach's armour is by the standard route up from Glen Torridon. I descended to the road and walked the short distance to the excellent path that goes up on the south side of the mountain.

On Liathach! 

It was 2pm by the time I set foot on the second hill of my photographic pilgrimage. At 3.30 I was on the ridge and after passing just a handful of folk heading down I was alone for the rest of the ridgeline, fantastic! A nice breeze so the going much nicer now with pleasing temperatures. Despite the bigger rucksack I scrambled Am Fasarinen, of course. This is the middle section of the mountain and offers grade 2 scrambling if taken direct. I took my time and enjoyed the airy scrambling in wonderful solitude.

Looking east from Spidean Coire Leith

On the pinnacles

Hot rock

My earlier thoughts of 'this is too hot' with a big bag had faded to euphoria of being on my second favourite mountain surrounded by the most spectacular of scenery.

Glen Torridon from Am Fasarinen

What a place to be in late afternoon sun

By 'tea time' I was across the pinnacles and the final stroll up to Liathach's second Munro summit, Mullach an Rathain. Just below the summit, on the mountains West ridge the terrain changes from narrow, rocky Torridonian sandstone rock to lovely grassy, flattish ground on a wide plateau like ridge. A great spot to camp. I spotted my mate Paul and his partner Elaine who had mentioned they may up the hill bivvying. It's a small world. So we had a great evening watching the sun slowly dip on the horizon and some good banter.

Sunset over Loch Torridon

The light was absolutely stunning. With a bit of thin, high cloud out to the west it produced wonderful colours in the sky, the sun was a beautiful orange glow. It is also a huge benefit to photography. No glaring sunlight in the lens! 

Sunsetting above Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin

There's always a fun guessing game with sunsets and rises. Where will the sun actually set? Well tonight it was setting right above one of Beinn Alligin's Munro summits, Tom na Gruagaich, stunning.

Sunset over Beinn Alligin

The final minutes before the sun disappears

WEDNESDAY 25 AUGUST

LIATHACH - BEINN ALLIGIN

Paul & Elaine at sunrise, Liathach

I had a fantastic overnight perch on Liathach. My tent was set up just a few metres below the summit with a backdrop of the Northern Pinnacles. A great spot to photograph sunrise. All week the MWIS weather forecasts were hinting at the possibility of temperature inversions in the NW Highlands. Up until this morning we hadn't been lucky to see this wonderful phenomena, until dawn today!

Sunrise above Beinn Eighe from Liathach

Super sunrise & temperature inversion

It was an hour of watching and photographing one of the best summer sunrises I have seen for sometime. What a way to begin a day. On top of the world's second finest mountain, glorious colours at sunrise with a sea of cloud below us. 

First rays of light hitting the top of the clouds

Beinn Alligin

Beinn Damph rising above the sea of cloud

My camp spot

It was a chilly start but once the sun was up the temperature rocketed! I said farewell to my sunset & sunrise friends and continued down the wonderful, long, easy grassy slopes toward my third and final mountain, Beinn Alligin.

Beinn Alligin & Beinn Dearg above the cloud

As I made my way down the long western slopes the top of the cloud actually rose higher. What a sight. Mesmerising. This broad, grassy slope continues onto a steeper, rocky end, I needed to come down on easier angled slopes to gain the foot of Beinn Alligin. 

Beinn Dearg above the sea of cloud

Beinn Alligin

Once into the cloud the temperature took a drop (hence the correct name for this wonderful weather type 'temperature inversion'). I actually had to get my map and compass out to get into the correct line of descent for Coire Mhic Nobaill with some rocky bluffs nearby.

Horns of Alligin, Baosbhain & Beinn Dearg

Sgurr Mor & The Horns

A Broken Spectre as I head into the cloud

As I descended from clear, warm air into thick cloud and damp air I was greeted with a Broken Spectre. Just to make the day even better! Almost got a Fog Bow but hey, don't be too greedy!

The summit of Tom na Gruagaich

I was down into the long, wide Coire Mhic Nobuill quite quickly. So were the midges! No wind, damp and cloudy. Just what they love! I lightened my load by dumping the camping gear. Great to be down to a light rucksack. It was busy up the path onto Tom na Gruagaich. The most people I had seen for two days. I was moving quickly to get out of the cloud, out of the midges and into that pure, crystal clear air again. After just 4 hrs & 10 minutes I had walked down from Liathach and was on the summit of Tom na Gruagaich. Not bad going! Above the clouds at 900m and another stunning day in store.

Sgurr Mhor poking out the clouds

Tom na Gruagaich from the North

By mid day the cloud top was hovering around 900m. Only the highest summits were poking through. Liathach floating on a sea of cloud along with Beinn Alligin. Reaching Sgurr Mor the cloud started fragmenting again as the warm sun burnt it off. Fabulous and atmospheric. I let the crowds go in front of me, finding my own space to savour my last mountain and the amazing cloudscapes.

The Horns, Beinn Dearg & Liathach

Liathach

Beinn Dearg

The final ridge from Sgurr Mor drops down onto 'The Horns'. Beinn Alligin's only scrambling. Despite the hands on rock only being Grade 1 it was much easier with the light rucksack. I kept stopping along it's three wonderful towers of sandstone as the cloud eventually lifted completely and the glens were once more visible. 

The Horns of Alligin

The Final tower with fabulous clouds

I picked my way down off the final steep slopes and collected my camping gear for the early evening stroll back down to the glen and Torridon. A remarkable 3 days of stunning weather. Sunsets, sunrises and temperature inversions. The finest trio of mountains in the finest glen. I don't actually know why I waited 27 years to repeat it!

Sgurr Mor

Baosbheinn

Liathach