Friday 21 October 2022

LIATHACH SUNRISE

 

The nearest to a sunrise

There was a short, brief high pressure over Scotland this week. There's not been many of these recently. With an Easterly airflow this usually means great conditions in the west. With a weather forecast of completely clear skies over Liathach on Tuesday and Wednesday I was off with the tent. and made a journey up to the finest mountain region in our country, Torridon.

The start of the path up Coire Lair

 Setting off under beautiful skies from Achnashellach I wandered through Coire Lair. If you would ever dare of being bored walking through this glen then shame on you. Best put your walking shoes away and go and take up jigsaw puzzles. I must have walked through here over a hundred times or more, Summer and Winter. 

The view of Liathach from.the head of Coire Lair

As I walked up the coire I still hadn't actually decided what I was going to do over the next couple of days. It wasn't until I walked beneath the magnificent Sgor Ruadh that I made up my mind of heading into Glen Torridon, setting up camp and then having an early start the next day to get sunrise on Liathach, the 2nd finest mountain on the planet.

Lovely camp spot

I set off at 3.30am from my camp spot, walking up the usual route in darkness as the stags were roaring in the glen. It was a star studded night with a crescent moon. I mistimed my walk up. Realising I was going to be hanging about for the sunrise which doesn't happen until 8am these days. So I sat sheltered from the brisk wind, 30 minutes from the ridge. The cloud kept obscuring the moon, was it going to clear?

Almost!

Looking West from the rid

After an hour, at 6.30am I made the final 100m or so onto the ridge and then up onto Liathach's Eastern most top, Stuc a' Choire Dhuibh Bhig. This Munro top gives the classic view of the mountain. I waited 1 hour as the wind tried its best to blow the stubborn cloud off the tops. 8am came and went and no sign of a clear, stunning view. I started the traverse in thick cloud. I reached Bidein Toll a' Mhuic, the next Munro Top when, at last, a break in the cloud and swirling mist. It looked promising!

The start of Am Fasarinen 

But the cloud came in thick and fast again. The first Munro of Spidean a' Choire Leith was gained in a wet mist and cold wind. No views. I was beginning to think the tea boy at the Met Office had been messing about on the computers aagain.

Will it clear?

Exhilarating scrambling in the wind

Down to the start of the Am Fasarinen pinnacles, the exciting section. I thought I may be out of the clag, but no. Then an exhilarating scramble in 40mph winds was enjoyed, the clouds breaking slightly. Very atmospheric. It wasn't until I finished the scrambling and on the final, easy stroll up to the second Munro that I saw blue skies and mountains clearly! At last! Broken Spectres were savoured as I peered into Coire na Caime.

First Brocken Spectre

......and another one
At last some far reaching views!

Clearing in the west

Final Am Fasarinen pinnacle

Northern Pinnacles 

Sitting on Mullach an Rathain I eventually got clear views out west to Beinn Alligin and Applecross.

Beinn Alligin and Loch Torridon 

No fine sunrise in glorious Autumn shades but a very satisfying traverse. I saw just 1 other person walking the ridge West-East as I started heading down into the glen. 


I'll be back for that glorious sunrise soon, no doubt. 


Over 200 traverses of 'The Grey One'. 

Today it was the shy, windy one.

Mid afternoon view from the tent


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